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I'd suggest using back to back angles for the shelf supports, personally.

do you not have the option to remove the tandem breaker and replace it with two 1/2" breakers (one or both being GFCI)..

Have both of the site guys quantify the fill they'll need.. the numbers should be close (make sure they're bringing in structural fill, not topsoil or anything with roots/organics in the dirt) Are they putting in a wall of any sort? Are they both stripping all topsoil off and hauling it off...

THIS... something in the garage door or the garage wall has expanded with the heat (humidity?) and effectively made your garage door opening "too small". the door is trying to shut but is bottoming out before reaching the preset stop location.

(scratch previous post) why not just drill vertically into the curb and expoxying a threaded rod down into the curb, drill an accompanying hole into the post and use the threaded rod as a pin to support the fence.

For a remodel in GA, any new circuit needs to be Arc Fault protected (regardless of where it is)

this is what I would have thought also.. a traditional garage door opener is rarely strong enough to open a door that hasn't got a spring assist.

porcelain.. especially if you install it yourself.

your greatest concern would be from soil heave, but protect against that with the proper design and go for it. why not just save the money or pay off other debt with it..?

me too. purchased the rebuild kits on ebay and it runs like a sewing machine again...

use steel wool, nock off the high spots without removing the finish.. sanding the finish down to the untreated wood just starts the grain raising process all over again.

lakeroadster is right.. you're going to have issues that telegraph to the exterior veneer if you dont fix this problem first.

*sponge* thanks guys.. (rethinks setting up my AC225, want a AC/DC225 now)

How is the load being transferred (without resting on top of the rafters)?

seems to me people are picking only certain parts of the NEC out and showing them as "acceptable" without looking at the system as a whole (which is mandatory for any system 600v or less). The small conductor rule would apply here and therefore there would have to be additional overcurrent...

sure.. I'll spend a couple hours creating a crappy version of a crescent wrench (which can be purchased in 5 minutes for $10.)

that's a great looking garage.. love the tie in out at the front, great choice for the ceiling.. I may steal the look for our downstairs powder room (and probably wont give you credit).. ;-)

Rocket, isn't that determined by the shear wall design requirements? I've seen scenarios where orientation was specified (and not optional), but for typical shear wall construction i dont believe that's the case.

it would freak me out to have a setup like that.. cause stuff happens..

i'm still surprised that most municipalities dont require a 1 hr rating on an attached garage. I made mine a 1hr enclosure when I moved in.