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use 50A retractable reels Shoreline makes a couple that will work.

drain will turn a Ptrap into a siphon without a vent. without a P trap, you'll end up smelling the sewer every time you open the dishwasher (have fun eating off THOSE clean plates)

home automation panel? did they handle it all for you or did you install it? what does it control?

exposed is fine while waiting to cover them up.. to surface mount a plastic box after a wall is installed and "finished"? then you're right, steel boxes and EMT would be the way to go for that application.

while I certainly agree with following the rules in most cases, you'd be a fool to think that plumbing systems, water, or physics is different in MN than it is elsewhere in the country. AAVs are used all over the country, just because MN plumbers and pipe-fitters union has a stronger lobby and...

not sure what I'm doing right, but ALL my fabricators are guaranteeing my pricing for 30 days from bid date. (typical) sounds like some of y'all are dealing with opportunists..

what about just adding plastic laminate to a plywood "door" that you mount in front of the panel? if you had to buy a whole sheet of PLAM and had the plywood on hand it would cost you less than $40.

I have, but as you mentioned previously, it was on one of my commercial projects. (I'm a GC)

I'd tie the dishwasher into a waste line using the corrugated hose. the waste line should have a studor vent at the top of it (several inches above where the DW waste line ties in) and just run that pvc line under the floor and tie into the waste line you plan on using in your diagram. the...

Assuming you're not throwing anything sharp up against the cavities or installing the wall sheathing with a pneumatic nailer, there is nothing to worry about when using Romex wiring in a wall cavity that wont be "2 sided" for a few months. You can use PVC, but it has it's own limitations for...

True RMS is a measurement for alternating current, not direct current as found in batteries. Really, any multimeter will work for something like measuring battery voltage. (and just about all the entry level commercial ones found at HD/Lowes will work for anything any consumer needs on a...

absolutely true, but ball valves do not meet code in most municipalities for service shutoff. they also cannot be used to restrict flow if you're in a high pressure area or tapping off a very large line. gate valves aren't a problem if you go out and wrench them down and open them back up...

set another box, if you ever have to go back into the connection for any reason, it's much easier to work in.

no need for them both to come off the meter. you can replace the section of pipe on your side the meter and use a threaded adapter to PVC, a section of PVC pipe with a TEE, then a PVC compression connection to connect to the black pipe that runs to your house. like THIS but ignore everything...

Tee off your side of the line, add a dual check valve (backflow preventer) and a gate valve in a box right at the Tee. make sure it all stays below the frost line, of course.

I bought a craftsman socket set with 1/4 and 3/8 drivers, BOTH of the drivers "stripped out".. I took them back to sears and was given an even lower quality replacement. if I'm gonna get low quality **** then I'll just pay "huskey or kobalt" prices for it.. the craftsman stuff I have from 30...

I have seen plenty of sectioned rail kits used on commercial receiving doors, most receiving doors for any grade height application are 8'X8'. EVERY grocery store (dock height or grade height) I've ever seen in GA/SC/TN/NC/FL all use 8'x8' doors, most have solid section rails, plenty dont...

they're probably made by the same guys that make the HD Husky wall cabinets that I have. (they require assembly) I'm reasonably happy with mine, but I dont overload them.

not enough information to make a real recommendation.. why do people ask questions like this without any photos of whats going on?

when I see pigeons, I know its time to move further out of town.