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put a 6" layer down of crusher-run (graded aggregate base), then roll out Tensar TX160 Geogrid, then another 6" of crushed stone. compact the top layer with a vibratory smooth drum make sure to overlap the geogrid as recommended. you'll create a much more stable driving surface than using...

standard wedge anchors. you can see the trapezoidal top (striking surface) sticking up above the nut. I don't know why people don't use threaded rod and Hilti HY-100 or HY-200 epoxy.

I've never seen a photo of a benchtop model, I assumed yours had been cut down from a floor standing model... very nice..

my shop is 11X24 so good to know it's working for you. I live near Atlanta, so I'm really only looking for something that will run about 2-3 mos a year..

do you have an existing X10 controller in your house (for any home automation) ? HERE is a remote (X10) control outlet rated for 20A @240v X10 Basics (explained) X10 WiFi Hub it's not difficult to set up and i believe it will give you exactly what you are looking for. you can even set up...

? galvanizing is EVERYWHERE.. mainly because of it's weather resistance over time. chain link fence DOT railings handrails deck fasteners roof panels it's literally everywhere.

I dont see where it HAS to span 48" install blocking between the trusses at 24" OC and get back to work.

wrong. a man standing on a single point of a truss/joist/simple beam is a POINT LOAD. that same man would have to lay down in order to change the distribution of his load. same reason a man can lay down and move on thin ice he cannot walk across. dude, your embarrassing yourself with...

I stopped reading where you said something wrong. all ceiling sheathing is installed perpendicular to the framing, so, unless you're cutting the drywall into 48" squares, you are wrong. if you're concerned about intermittent fastening, you can install 2X blocking between the trusses so there...

Then you probably shouldn't. BUT people do it every day, relying on the safety factor incorporated into the design by the engineers to maintain an acceptable deflection. think about it from this standpoint: when the structure was being built, the guys that were installing the blown in...

There is NO WAY they all priced the same exact building. tell them you want it broken out as follows: General Conditions Concrete (building/sidewalk) Masonry (?) Steel Structure (?) Carpentry (framing/sheathing/siding/trim) Thermal & Moisture Protection (Insulation/Roofing/Caulking) Doors &...

remove them, but not for any of the reasons given to you, remove them because of the differential in thermal expansion between the two materials. tin leaks over time because it's typically face nailed through to wood (rigid connection) and the tin moves in the direction of the long axis of...

you've given NO specifics but you're asking a specific question. Pictures? Measurements? Size of your ceiling joists? (rafters are at the roof, joists form floors/ceilings). Span of each joist you want to store above? There are people here who will tell you no without knowing any of the...

impossible unless he posts those truss diagrams. no truss ever failed (specifically) from getting a layer of gyp board attached to the bottom chord though. ever.

This entire thread is nothing but conjecture without the OP providing the truss drawings for the system that HE installed. Find a single reference to truss failure because a drywall ceiling was installed on the bottom chord..

lol.. no. the only thing that will create compression on the bottom chord is an open wall scenario where wind will create uplift from the center of the span. in that case, the truss manufacturer will have considered Xspf of uplift and the trusses wouldn't be spaced 48"oc. it would also nearly...

I stopped reading when you said something wrong.. bottom chord of a truss will NEVER see compression in relation to the loading over the truss as a whole. There's no such thing as "top chord loading only" in design, assuming the load is evenly distributed on the top chord vs evenly...

then why use something as expensive as rebar when WWF sheets would suffice at a fraction of the cost.

you mean the area that sees essentially no tension or compression? reinforcing bar should always be in the lower 1/3 with no less than 1" of concrete all around it (preferably 2-3")

order out a cube of concrete brick and use those.