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So far what everyone has said is true. a 18:1 is gonna cost some bux, there heavy as hell and you will cuss the entire time if you are trying to use it yourself. It would also be 300% to big for common torque ratings. A longer torque wrench would help alot and several companies make "tire"...

awesome!

Tada! Either way I would cut the taper off them and just store the steel, won't take up much room when trimmed up. The tapers would be good for making various tools (wedges etc) and the straight sections would be good for any thing in general. If you scrapped the tapers, maybe 3 of the 4 you...

Rught roh, there not actually called forklifts they are called lift trucks... and the forks are actually tines, not forks, petty I know but it is what it is. :lol_hitti

If you cut eye/hook end off and then cut them at the 90* bend the left over striaght section makes good press plates for your hyd press.

a properliy sized hydraulic suction hose could be clamped on to the filler neck then plumbed to the bottom of a larger resevoir to add capacity if needed.

Well not sure at the speeds you are gonna run you'll even need a zerk, just grease the packing when installed. the issue would be squeazing the grease through the packing to the shaft surface with out putting too much pressure on the gland. Check out this site for some ideas. Buck Algonquin

The HF kinker does a fine job on pipe, you will have allot of waste though on small leg pieces like in your examples.

I would think a inboard boat type stuffing box would be easy to make for the shaft size you come up with. You could use rope or similar material and grease to seal it off.

i'd go the air hammer route, that is silly fast even with a cheap air hammer and bit, most air hammers include that tin cutter bit anyway. And if you do cut it with a fire maker make sure you are wearing the red thong, in our out of the chair.

For aluminum I don't think it matters much on the blade RPM issue. I use my Ryobi 10" miter saw for alluminum tubing with the stock blade it came with no issues what so ever. It actually works awesome and is my go to Al tube cutting tool. I can't cut straight on my band saw either but I have...

diy4x.com http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=39&product_id=86

do you have a illistrationof this, I think I get just not sure.

Nice work there, I like the beef of the uprights. If you don't mind me asking... When you ran the calcs where did the bolted blocks come in strength wise. I am looking to do something similar and hadn't had time to run the numbers on bolting the bed or uprights. I have a bunch of 8" channel...

nice, good idea

Quote: Originally Posted by ersatzs2 one of the biggest regrets of my build was using a giant engineered wood ridge beam instead of steel. If I used an I beam I could've had a trolley with a hoist accessing the entire length of the open span. Instead I made some slots in the sheet rock so it's...

Love your shop build, it has the feel of a "million dollar" production hidden in the woods. I would love to see your bender mods. I have that bender and while I haven't bent any small tube like you are doing I might be able to benefit from your modifications. :beer:

VW Dodge, Get one Youtube and watch the many tutorials on the subject you are trying to learn, then pause the vid and perform the same task, you will pick it up pretty quick.

Sketchup does rock, nice table design aswell. A suggestion for the dimensions is to change the model info units format. You can set the precision of the drawing in decimal or fraction units. Window>Model Info>Units>Length Units

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