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Send the old one to me... you can see where my vote lies.

Plywood! It's nicer, lighter, and easier to work with. It also takes nails and screws much better (for hanging things).

I'm with Dave...except I don't actually make a tray per se. I run a row of sockets, cut a thin piece of wood, set it next to that row, line up the next row of sockets, and so forth. I use thicker pieces of wood with holes drilled in it for items like short extensions, swivels, specialty bits...

I don't mind the number of posts you have...can't a person just want the conversation?...I'll join... I think the size you have chosen to be adequate for what you are doing. Dual stage is a must in my book. The "oilless" ones are horribly loud (never again). I would not care about the...

I have added Dual LED spot lights out further from the wall (about 5 feet) for enhancing local bench areas. I really like them as my eyes are going on 52 year old. Some, I point at the bench while others focus on a common work area. My ceilings are 12 foot and I use the 120 watt equivalent...

Excellent! That's got me started in the right direction. I have learned to stay away form the Roller Swage fittings = Mucho $$$$. Do the following Crimp-On fittings use the same compression tool? I ask because first one has 2 cables going through it while the second is for a single cable AND...

I have a simple application that would use 1/4" (maybe smaller) steel cable (galvanized or SS) along with loop thimbles and a turn-buckle, but don't know the first thing about what tools to look into or where to get them. I will NOT be using cable clamps as I want a clean look to it. The...

I cannot recommend a dedicated plastic jawed plier as I do not own any, but I am happy with a set of smooth jawed channel locks and protective jaw covers. A pack of ten should be break down to less than a dollar a piece...just match them to the pliers and your good for a while.

18-24 inches from the wall will be the sweet spot range, as you mentioned. Put the light elevation just above or at the tops of the cabinets, if your OK with hanging them from chains. I would lean towards the 24" mark if you are mounting directly to the ceiling. Mine hang from chains and I...

This is good advice, but can be frustrating, I know. Paint stripper should work well too, so long as it is a solid wood door. Stripper will do a number on glued together hollow doors and some laminate doors. I would bet that the peeling problem comes from inadequate prep work before the last...

I'll be doing this soon (given the gumption) to my 9 year old floor. The cuts are about 1/8" wide and 1/2" deep. The dirt and junk they collect drives me nuts when I use the air wand to sweep the floor. It just keeps coming out! Is tape strongly recommended? / Is it messy? / What clean up...

I can see a concern with regards to optical illusions with all the flakes causing one to miss judge a step out of their peripheral vision. With that said. I would still flake the steps, but add a paint stripe along the leading edges of the steps. I did this with plain pine stairs and it makes...

Given that inside storage in not an option...5 gallon buckets with lids work great for small/medium sides parts and are very weather proof. For inside storage, totes are the best...stack nice, are space efficient and come in a variety of sizes. Remember that you get what you pay for when it...

Out of the box idea...paint stripper (aircraft stripper is some strong stuff) may be a good option. It would certainly cut the dust out of the equation. I'm not trying to talk you out of a bench grinder...everyone should have one! My small unit is a blessing and would do your job all day...

Look into the Penofin line of products. I did a fair amount of research for wood bed treatment in my classic truck and Penofin seemed to be a rock solid choice. A much less expensive option would be linseed oil. Both will require periodic re-treatment, but they are not a paint so they will...

Any of the flux core welders in the $250 price range will suit your needs just find. Sorry I cannot recommend one personally...it's been too long since my flux core days. Hobart brand tends to come up in the threads as a good beginner however. I am a bit confused whether you are looking to...

Thanks SeisMec for the springboard! Perfect idea to jump from. I was able to pull the old acme screw out, add a heavy washer between the boss and movable jaw, and put it back together. The worn areas were so bad that there was room for this 1/8" thick washer given that I made it somewhat...

My recent goal in life is to bend over as little as possible between now the the end...I'm not lazy...just trying to save some bending over for years to come so that I don't HAVE to be lazy latter. A younger me was to lazy to set up the horses and I would work on the floor...no more of that...

Down and dirty...fasten the vise to a 2x6, 2x8, or what ever fits it dimensionally..even a steel plate. Then C clamp it to the bench when you need it. It would be too big for me to handle very often...I would want a stand build specifically for it. Here's an idea or at least something to...

I agree with this ^^^^^^ Just don't clutter the future water line path (if/when needed) with obstacles that you'd regret losing, moving, or would increase the costs associated with the relocation. I have a similar issue, but it is a septic system where I want my garage. OUCH!