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I haven't done much because I didn't feel like shelling out for a new garage at the moment. However a few weeks ago I got a set of free oak cabinets and I really want to get the car in there for the winter time. The only trouble was the garage leans forward and to the left. I set out to...

I did my entire basement with VCT tile a few years ago in white. Stupid me, I didn't know I had to seal it so it started to discolor in the more high traffic areas. I borrowed a buffer that came with a pink spongy brillo pad disc on it and tried to clean it up. It made it more shiny but never...

Looks good. I screwed up when I put down my white VCT in my basement because I didn't wax it right away. I ended up spilling a bunch of dirty water when draining my furnace and no matter how much grinding I never got the stains out of the tiles.

Just buy a $50 N router and N adapter. It should reach a few hundred feet even through buildings.

They got a large shipment of these in at the Home Depot by me for $299 each so I picked one up. The Amazon reviews were pretty good.

I just picked up a 'Champion' 4000W max from Home Depot for $300. They got a huge batch in since there are still a ton of people without any power around here.

I don't see where you have a truss since the building is a lean too with a single sloped roof surface. Build some type of support under the roof where it attaches to the garage about a foot from the wall. Detach the wall from the garage. Rip out whatever that 4x4 and the header wood piece on...

That's what I would do. It's the cheapest thing you can do provided the rest of the structure is sound. Go around and mark every board that you should replace and take an inventory. Work at a section at a time and remove the load in each area as you replace different boards.

I have this for the race tires and it works fantastic. It's only $129 too. I get tiny lines on the tires from the bar, but they aren't permanent and you can put pipe foam on the bar. Or just spin the tires every so often. I'm dealing with slicks and this wouldn't be an issue with regular...

Any updates on the interior shots? I'm looking at the same structure you have, but I really wish it was open in the center and you could order a full size door. Either way, that hasn't stopped me from considering them.

Any plans to cover that 4x4 now that it looks really out of place? Do you have a build thread or pictures for that car?

The mini-splits all claim they work down to 12F and I have found people who said they used them when their primary heat when out at those temps. But I wouldn't plan on using it for an extended time.

Most local dumps(at least in NJ) won't let you show up with something with commercial plates unless you have a proper dumping license/permit. I know because I ran into this issue when I rented a U-Haul for this purpose. I ended up having to borrow a friend's truck.

Are the elongated ones normally longer? The round one I have is 28" deep, but I found an elongate TOTO that advertises 28 1/8". I was going to go with a shorter toilet because the tub is in front and there isn't much room, but I can only find a 26.5" that appears to be out of stock everywhere...

My main one was been acting up(35+ years old), it just doesn't flush like it used to. I replaced the guts, made sure the water jet in the bowl wasn't clogged. It just doesn't 'get' everything in one flush no matter how I adjust the tank. I was thinking of just replacing it with a TOTO because...

The mini-split will cost you much less to run. My electric bill has dropped in half after I got rid of the window units and we keep the house at 76F all day, vs ran the window units only when we were home.

I have 2 units and each has three 9k btu blowers on it. They run great and keep the house cold all summer long.

Roofer called back and said while he could do the torched down rolled roofing, he suggested a rubber roofing over an layer of insulation he will put down. He said it's a little more money, but it lasts much longer than the rolled roofing and it's what they have been putting on all the buildings...

Pretty much said before in this thread but I'd kick out that 4x4 a few more inches, install a french drain(perforated pipe wrapped in fabric, connect any nearby gutters into the drain, divert to the street, then pour the rocks back into the ditch.

That's what I thought.