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Please do some more research. Perhaps you've never seen Type L or M hard 1/2" copper pipe at any of the many plumbing supply stores or building supply stores across this country. Or notced what homes are plumbed with. 1/2" copper pipe is sold as "pipe" and is 5/8' OD. It's the industry...

When cleaning, make sure there is no glue from bundling tape, paint, other soldering residue or green corrosion. Scuff up the surface a bit with sand cloth and the socket with a soldering brush, but don't get carried away. The pipe and the fittings should be round enough to slip together...

I just don't see the advantages of any of that setup. Maybe I'm missing something. The copper manifold arrangement seems to have all the supply/return tees in a series arrangement on the primary loop. This means each zone will dilute the next if running at the same time, or not dilute if only...

There is no need to vent at the manifold, especially with the setup shown.

Yeah, it looks like it is oriented correctly, with the shaft horizontal and the oil cap on top of the seal and bearing chamber. Problem is, Bzinsky never has clarified what specifcally went wrong. It may have nothing to do with oil, or it could be the motor or the spring drive. Maybe the red...

Smrt, I think you are still missing the point. 20* is a random number that is better than 30* or 50*, etc. It is not, in itself "ideal". The point is that the larger the differential, the more uneven the heat and the more thermal shock in the boiler, not that you are out of the "ideal" range...

Zoom-Spout oilers, as mentioned by bobby, are a very good, easy to get and easy to use choice. They have been around forever and are commonly used for these pumps. No need to re-invent the wheel or track down an obscure oil.

Yeldogt is exactly right. When a boiler is severely overloaded, you don't have the luxury of calling out the in and out temps or trying for a 20* differential, etc. You are just adding all the power you have, over a long period, to raise the overall room temp. All the while, you are...

Thanks. What "failed"?

The pump in your picture appears to be a standard B&G spring drive pump with a small oil cap on the pump seal/bearing chamber. I can just see it under the partially removed guard in the picture. Please post a picture of the "sight glass". Very often, under these pumps I find a lot of oil on...

Raising the water temp, in your case will not make a difference in the recovery time. You are only adding about 12,000 BTU to your system and that is very low. In this case it's not the temp that counts, it's the Watts or BTUs that count, and your delivery is low. The boiler will always be in...

It's best to know what type of boiler and what the plumbing scheme is being used before answering that question. Standard boilers must be allowed to operate above their condensing temperatures, while condensing boilers can be set at very low settings. If the boiler is only sized large enough...

You'll have to be more specific. You don't say what failed. Those B&G pumps do need oil, but you don't "fill" the reservoir. They take a few drops at the seal and a drop or two at each end of the motor. Oiling once a season is plenty and only a couple drops at most. I've seen them run for...

One thing that will cause this is using the cans when they are too cold. Let them sit in a warm place until they are thoroughly warmed up. I think the instructions say not to use them below 60*, buy 70 or 80 is better. It might also be caused by not being shaken well enough before any paint...

yeldogt, Sounds like you guys have it rough in the winter. Fortuantely, here at about latitude 38 and in the high desert, the sun is strong almost all the time except for an occasional dreary few days in December or January. The altitude of 5,000 ft makes a huge difference over sea level...

Exactly right. In a shop especially, you don't need to heat clear to the perimeter and it doesn't mean the water will have to run noticeably hotter to keep up. But it does mean much less loss to the outside. A good rule of thumb is that you only need to heat where you might actually step. In...

Just don't cut the joints with a saw. Use a grooved float tool while finishing. You really don't know where the tube is after the pour. It can be very near the top if the wire mesh springs up or a clip breaks.

finn, Excellent post. Very good point. Heat is not needed right up to the edges of the slab. Hold it back. Put it where you'll actually be needing it the most, like in front of the workbench or where you'll be working on a vehicle, or under a desk, under an area that you store paint, in the...

Dagny, Please do some research on what "oxygen permeation" means. It has nothing to do with being open to the atmosphere or being pressurized. It's oxygen molecules permeating through non-metalic tubing from the atmosphere to the water in the system. System pressure has nothing to do with it...

Insulation prevents heat loss, or slows it. Can you explain where the heat loss is underneath a slab? Not the edges, not the walls or the ceiling. Underneath the slab when it is on dry ground? What is the mechanism and where does it go? I can see the dirt adding to the mass that must be...