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I am still planning, won't pour the floor till next summer, I think. Doing as much research and asking questions of professionals. If the sand helps the mud set up and does not negatively affect the heating it may not be a bad idea. I do prefer the separate systems concept.

The last 2 were the most informative responses, thank you. Brewchief I see you are also from a cold climate and HVAC guy. How do you deal with it for years?? What is your opinion on using a Toyo boiler vs a on demand water heater that supplies the domestic water needs as well as the radiant...

Information form local contractors is what promoted my question regarding the sand. The layer of sand is above the foam insulation. I heard of it from 1 of the batch plant operators. I intend to discuss it with some guys that install the systems before I move forward next spring

does the expansion of the loops as they heat and cool cause any problems with the mesh they are lashed to??

I planned on more heat on the perimeter since that is where the cold spots would most obviously be.

How about using "on demand" water heating system for the radiant heat? I read a pretty good article about that

Does anyone have an info on laying a layer of sand on the radiant heat loops in a cement floor. Supposed to heat the sand helping to heat the cement more evenly. It is all on top of the insulation layer of course

thanks, I had found an engineered wood products site and calculated the dead load as around 12,000 adding up the weight of al the components and multiplying by 1.5. I had not factored in what Chris indicated that 1/2 the load is on the wall which is accurate. If I go with 12X32X40=15360 I...

I am doing my own calculating the individual components and adding it up. just needed to bounce my figures against something else. Whatever goes in there will be over built.

I am building a mezzanine that will be 32' X 12' with a kitchenette, bathroom and bedroom. Nothing fancy or extravagant. No tile products on the floor, Most likely a fridge and a microwave. The walls with be 2 X 4 lumber. The decking will be 2 X 10 and 5/8" T&G. I need to estimate a load...

I am in Alaska, 120 miles out of Anchorage.

I am in a similar position and am researching spray foam instead of fiberglass. Foam seems to have it hands down except for the cost.

I want to span 32' to support a mezzanine that will be 12' wide. I would like to do this without a support post holding it up. The mezzanine will be for a Mother in law apartment in a shop I am building. Does anyone have a design in either manufactured wood products or steel?

I agree, I own a couple and they have there time and place but not every time or all the time

there is a low spot there, fill it so that the water does not settle but drains past

There will always be a need for people that repair, fix & build things. Round the mechanics training off with some machinist &/or welding courses and spend time mastering the skills. With the self interested society we live in people don't care to fix their own stuff. When they spend good $$...

you will need to vent that roof somehow of will have mildew. your plan looks like it will result in a valley where the present roof connects. Also getting those windows flashed may be problematic.

1st build a storage shed for all the stuff that will get "stored" in the garage eliminating your free space for benches and tools. Have fun:beer::beer:

I purchased a Lincoln 180HD Mig welder from Home Depot. The HD indicates it was made to sell at Home Depot. The similar Lincoln 180 mig welder sold by the local welding supply was $200 more in price. There is a difference in the internal parts. Things such as rollers and housings are made of...

Thanks, so each turn is approx 19'