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I don't think the OP can dowel into that slab. the drawing shows an alternate of "keying" the new poured pad under the existing. As I posted above, my concern would be the "keying" means the new pad is relying on some structure assistance from the existing pad. I wonder if it sufficient given...

I'm far from an expert but it seems to me that tying into a 1-1/2" surrounding slab as you are doing could be dangerous given the size of the section you have cut out. Are you concerned that torsional forces from an improperly balanced vehicle might not cause the whole thing to twist and tear...

A dehumidifier is the way to go but I doubt it will be able to take water out of the air as quickly as leaking pipes can introduce more. Unless the pipes are large size, complicated layouts, a roll of PEX, some fittings and a crimp tool can do wonders to renew old leaky plumbing. That is where I...

I'm curious about the footings under the walls and the depth and type of fill under the poured concrete floor.

My 8 x 18' door sits about 4" down from the ceiling in my 24 x 24 garage. I use an 8500 as well. With a bendpak 7P and centring the lift fore/aft, I calculate there is about 2' of overlap at the rear of the ramp.

I hope the OP didn't jump off a tall building over this. I don't know what the local conditions are in his area, but I'd have had the contractor jack the whole structure up, dig everything out, drive piles to refusal, pour a new footing, set the building down. Then, dig out the fill under the...

From the site: "Latex is a coating designed to reduce the loss of moisture through walls and ceilings" It can't help with moisture loss through light fixtures, wall plugs, etc. In addition, I doubt it is building code approved as a true moisture barrier. I'm sure all paints and primers with...

While owner experiences here may be positive with the 3800, the Chamberlain dealer I spoke to (a full service overhead door company) said there were problems with them. I asked Liftmaster about this and they said the 3800 was a good first effort but the 8500 is much improved (didn't say how)...

I was hoping to avoid disassembling the structure. I'm going to contact a structural engineer to get an opinion on the cut out (recess) idea. If it is feasible ( and structurally sound) I'm going to try and install joists (in the 6' x 8' area I'd like to recess) that are 1/3 of the way up, so...

You need a vapour barrier on the warm side of all outside walls or you risk developing moisture in the cold spaces. Further, if you live in a an area that accumulates snow, you could have ice damming from the heat escape.

I agree with the other posts that your shingles should have more of an overlap. The other thing to check is the slope and drainage. I had a similar problem to yours recently, during a heavy downpour. the trough filled up and leaked between the point where the trough is attached to the fascia. It...

I like to keep my walls as clear as possible or at least for stuff I use regularly. We just finished drywalling and insulating our garage. I plan to hook my extension ladder to the ceiling using generous size "J" hooks (2 spaced apart to fit between the legs of the first rung) and then use a...

One possibility is to add a second stand alone garage to our property. We are on a residential lot in an old neighbourhood that is 150' x 133'. A back lane does run along the side of our property, but we don't use it as our driveway faces the front street. A 12' x 22' garage would cost around...

My chicken scratch drawing:

Can't do a new roof. We live in a 3,200 sq ft bungalow (You call it Ranch Style in the US). We put a composite shake roof on the house 7 years ago at a cost of over $45,000. The material weathers over time so I'd have a new roof on the garage (that would cost $10,000 by now) and a weathered...

From the ceiling to the peak is around 60", but your diagram measures to the underside of the rafters which are 2 x 4, so 60 - 4 = 52". Moving up 1/3 would give me 17", which would be adequate. It would come at a huge expense. It would take at least $2,000 to remove the ceiling and the $1,000 of...

Would they travel to Canada?

Sorry, I should have said "ceiling joists" So my ceiling joists (the horizontal beams that the ceiling drywall is screwed into are 2 x 10's

I would agree, but as pointed out that would be a much more costly option. If I have the headroom for a recess (in the attic) and can meet building codes by boxing the rafters around the recess, then that would be a much less expensive way to go. I'm not a structural engineer, so I don't know...

I'm planning on hanging the same New Age cabinets in my garage. My plan was to screw them into the 2 x 4 studs. Is that a problem?