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Not being familiar with the Blackhawk S4 jack… On that online S4 H schematic drawing, on the bottom right is a cross section of the hydraulic block, it identifies an overflow (left most) and a safety valve (at the top of the second from right valve). It description of operation says it’s a 2...

Last time I looked around SoCal, there was: Lazzar https://www.hcrcnow.com/?srsltid=AfmBOoouIdf3K-G7JF8FIITqLbnxx1BiXqxIoLSZ77RAdtC1qbXjM0pF who is in Long Beach. His website also has a pretty extensive online catalog of old jack manuals /schematic drawings that you can search through. As I’m...

Look up Lincoln CJ4000, and see if that has a frame that matches yours. I think you’ll find the rebuild kits to be the same as the 93-642 series, which had a number of different body frame variations over the years, along with a few variations in model numbers.

So thats why I had to buy a whole bunch of new cables?

Omega Magic Lift Jack stands. Although … I don’t know anyone that actually has them, possibly due to price. I think this video is from 14 years ago. I use jack stands and wheel chocks. Not because I’m worried about dying when swapping wheels. I just don’t like the idea of seeing my car’s...

I don’t think Hiball is in the business of selling rebuild kits anymore. Go find his signature line at the bottom of his posts. He should link a “hydraulics supply store” he likes a lot because they have something like 40-50 years of experience with many vintage American brands of floor jacks...

There are jack reservoirs with breathers and others that are sealed. If yours was a rubber plug, it’s a sealed reservoir. you can find replacements on Amazon. Just search for “jack fill plug”. There will be a few different sizes. They are probably like a dozen for $10 or something like that.

on hcrcnow,com there is a 93642 series C owners manual that has a copyright date of 1992. That should put it in the middle of the Lincoln era. https://media.hcrcnow.com/uploads/drawings/Lincoln_93642_Series_C_Hydraulic_Service_Jack_2_Ton.pdf I do believe the serial number does have date...

The spring should be in #3, above the cone valve. The nub on the inner screw should fit into the spring. It is the overload valve. The tighter/further in the screw, the higher the pressure setting… This is the thread you want to read...

I say do what you want. If you like being a minimalist, be a minimalist. I‘m not a minimalist. I am into time efficiency and ergonomics. If there is a tool that will make my project go faster, or allow my muscles not to be sore the next day, I’ll probably be buying it.

HCRCnow.com has a bunch of hydraulic jack diagrams from old manuals online.

The center cap in the middle of the wheel is press fit in there. Push it out from the inside. It is not in there very tight. I usually do it with my hands or the blunt handle end of some tool. My 36mm socket also has some slop in it. I’m not convinced that one with tighter tolerances would have...

Well, this thread makes me very happy because I’ve found somebody else having problems with an axle nut. Shade tree gamer here. I had trouble with a Honda CRV axle nut a few months ago. More insulting is that the stake in the axle nut had my tell tale punch marks on it, so it was me who put it...

Man, the inflation in tools is unbelievable. I think I got my PP3 for like $80ish many years ago (might have been on sale?)

The capacity number is where the overload bypass valve is set (One of the “do not adjust” screws). When the load you’ve placed on the saddle exceeds the capacity number, the spring loaded overload valve opens and directs the oil from pump to go back to the reservoir instead of into the lifting...

weird complaint. the AC jacks have a nut to adjust the lowering speed. see: https://www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/ACJack_adjust/ACJack_adjust.htm

The air vent is a small hole. When you remove the air vent, there is a bigger hole. Small hole to let air in and out and to try to keep the oil in. Big hole to let air in and out and to fill or drain oil.

You don’t need to take the white cap off. The metal+plastic part together screws out of the reservoir, and you can fill through the hole. The fill portion of the instructions is fine. The bleeding part of the instructions … was only for the first time when you unpackaged the jack to remove the...

The filler screw is the pan head screw on the back of the block in the first image. The set screw located between the pump and the spider release valve gear is covering the valve that transfers oil from the reservoir to the lifting cylinder. Don’t fill from there.

Yes, there is a white cap on top of the air vent. It is also the same place you fill the reservoir with hydraulic oil. In the past, there was a time when they shipped the jacks with a screw to prevent oil leaks during shipping. It had instructions to remove the screw and replace it with the air...