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That’s a good point, if there is interest the next one that comes in with a working ac that’s getting upgraded I’ll put a power logger on it and then log the same temp and points with a new inverter driven system. It won’t be exact but should show some of the efficiency vs a standard rv ac

Honestly if you haven’t tried one of the new variable systems that are out for RVs everything you think you know is just incomplete and outdated, I have sold and installed conventional rv ac units for at least 18 years, they are archaic now and have been for a while. The new ones are truly...

Just put a variable roof unit and be done. Much easier, don’t have to worry about what happens if you only have one leg, or have to use a 30. They are simple, cheap, designed for the use and nearly completely silent. Installed three this week. Will install 3-4 next week. Pick your poison...

The big capacitor is a two in one combo unit, it handles your compressor run and your combo interior and exterior fan. Specifically the only part of your capacitor that has failed is the 15 uf and in a pinch you could add just a 15 and run a jumper back to the common if you don’t have the right...

Not the case anymore about one fan for all RVs but for many older units like his 2nd gen penguin there that’s true.

You need to get some black angle aluminum rv extrusion thats pre punched. You specifically want the insert less version. See one of the vintage bathroom refloors where I used it for something similar on an old camper.

I’m curious to try the new 20k 4x8 from Langmuir, yes I know it’s not in the same power category as these but seems awesome to start with

Time to buy a lathe

Only took forever but we now officially have mainstream variable roof mount rv air conditioners available.

Modern Starlink systems now use standard Ethernet cables. While the OEM cables have better sealing, there are several aftermarket connectors available that seal just as well. Alternatively, you can use a short OEM cable as a transition. The good news is that the newer systems work perfectly with...

If he wants to be introduced to as many different trades as he can maybe consider Rv work. It changes daily or even hourly from Ac/Dc, plumbing, solar, welding, carpentry, it’s never a dull moment. Our biggest problem with tradesmen is that when I go to hire they don’t always have enough...

VGA will go that far. Plug a monitor into the board and make sure it puts out the hdmi and vga at the same time. That said I’d run hdmi with a duplexer for future upgrades

I can agree with that, did we ever find out how much he has to date payed out? I just know if it was mine, I would be running beams and recovering some of my money by using what was there. I just can’t see with the demo cost, trash bill, and other considerations costing more then using this...

How far to the shop? VGA is analog so without a blaun it isn’t going very far.

Scary, but giving that the building is pretty, assembled, and likely paid for I would have it fixed, and quite easily minus the need to cut out and form some beam and post footers. I would have it engineered, and use the existing “rafters” as purlins and weld them directly to my new beam x3...

I have a full set I’m about to eBay. Long drive for you and they need new pumps as the state removed and lost them but could be bought and fixed for a few percent of new ones.

Id definitely use a pump, but if I wasn’t going to and I was set on pouring in sections I would reverse the pour from what you are describing. I would pour the deepest you can reach with the truck then drive over the pour with the buggy after it reached cure

Why not consider a Dometic RTX unit? They would be half the price of that engine off, straight dc roof mounted and uses a variable inverter compressor. Since that above doesn’t come with batteries you could go a long ways to purchasing an RTX and 200 amp hours of batteries in lithium and nearly...

y’all pay these companies and they take this long? I have dropped 5 power services in the last two years. My house, my shop, two rentals and the temp pole that I used building the shop. From the time I pulled the permit at the inspections office to having transformers mounted and power turned...

Not a huge proponent of bars on egress windows but sounds like these are not actual windows. If you wanna make them sawzall and grinder proof just use steel 1 in id pipe with a piece of loose rebar inside before capping both ends with angle that bolts to the wall. Throw a 14 gauge wire through...