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I think the short answer is, if your AC is running continuous on a really hot day, it’s really close to being sized right on the money. I would guess that the difference between what you’re seeing is due to the online calculator making some assumptions, and your leakage higher than the program...

You can simply use duct tape to throttle the feed rate on units that don’t. We used leftover zip sheathing tape and it worked like a charm. Cover 2/3rds of the material feed and you get a somewhat correct air to material ratio for dense packing.

Couple things. First, I originally missed you saying the heating has no issue heating up. This is typically because the units are grossly oversized for “maintaining” a temp. They need to be sized for large swings in heating (bringing a house and everything in them up to temp). You also didn’t...

If your house is really leaky, the “infiltration” number could be much worse than the theoretical calculator is spitting out. Air movement also has an impact on insulation effectiveness, so your loss through the building shell via conduction would also be worse. When was the house built?

Surprised your building code doesn’t specify anything regarding FPSFs. The Minnesota state building code has a whole section on requirements of these types of foundations.

It’s not a “floating dock” per say. It’s a roll in dock and boat lift. They don’t move relative to the water level. When winter rolls around, simply get a couple guys and literally push the dock up onto the shore. I’m merely looking for a practical way to disconnect the circuit feeding the...

Have a lake property in northern Minnesota and my wife and I would like to have power ran out to our dock for some dock lights and boat battery charging, as well as hardwiring our motorized boat lift. The problem is every winter we have to pull both our dock and our boat lift out before the...

This…

Untreated sounds like a disaster. Personally I would probably just frame it like a deck and use treated deck boards.

That wall is supporting the whole roof load…

As bondo said, flush valve toilets require A LOT of water (typical commercial drop for a flush valve toilet is a 1 1/2” from what I’ve seen). With Tank type toilets the line size isn’t as big of a deal as the tank fills slowly. Flush valve fixtures are a whole other monster. Water line to this...

This isn’t entirely accurate. The max allowable GPM on some of those Modine units far exceeds the GPM listed for the advertised capacity. for example, their HSB-108 has a rated capacity of like 83,000 btu at 8.7 GPM, straight out of their water performance data. the maximum listed GPM for this...

Bathroom exhaust fan ducted with PVC

Drywall

I would have said radiant but it looks like that is not an option. If you can run gas I would use one of those small ceiling mounted unit heaters

Hard duct everything. When I design ductwork in commercial settings, we don’t allow our flex duct connections to exceed 5’ in length. It’s a bigger deal when you’re talking a commercial sized building, but I would still hard duct it to have a better chance at hitting adequate flow rates.

You could look into the thicker stuff they use commercially that’s made with fiberglass and has a self sealing, somewhat rigid end product. the cover is typically white and may blend in better. you could also look at re routing the pipe so it runs along the flange of the steel I beam. You...

You could probably buy hollow core doors from a box store and route the groove into the top of the door. I’m sure you can buy door wheel hardware somewhere too.

Sounds like an interesting idea for a shed roof.

Sounds pretty good. I imagine they want to sell you the most expensive unit they can, that or they were sizing for heat.