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I have used the one part epoxy paint from home depot on osb floors in my attic and in my tool shed where I keep my riding mower. It has held up really well and is only about $40/gallon. They can also tint it to whatever color you want.

Awesome work, LL!!! I too, often check into garage journal to see if you have posted any progress. This build is very addicting...

It's hurricane season...as soon as a storm hits, the price will shoot right back up!

If you try and put tiles down on this, you run a real strong risk of the tiles breaking along the same crack lines. In this situation, Race Deck might be the best and most cost efficient solution. You can lay it down right over the top of what you have and not worry about shifting, cracking...

I'm just finishing my 2500 SF completely finished garage with heated floor and bathroom for $35/SF in Denver. I was the general contractor though and worked pretty hard to keep the numbers where they are. I was quoted anywhere between $150k and $200k to have it built by others...:shocking:

Trenching is definitely the hardest part of the job. For the $300 savings, let him do it!

I disassembled the sprinkler valve and replaced the diaphragm already to be sure that was not the problem and the valve is passing water. The pressure regulator for the drip system is buried up by the house, so I will dig that up and check it out...

Not a garage question...but I am using tools from the garage to try and fix! So I have a DIG drip system around the yard that I put in 8 years ago. It runs off of a sprinkler valve with a pressure reducer. It has run flawlessly up until starting the system up this spring. I have checked...

Sounds like a clump of mud got into the concrete during the pour. It can retain moisture and freeze causing the concrete over it to pucker up and crack. About all you can do is clean out the hole of mud and loose concrete and patch it.

I thought you said you needed to get moved in quickly? :argue:

I bought a building that looked like this several years ago and tried to clean some of it. It becomes brittle and does not clean well. I ended up spraying it with white paint. Probably not the perfect solution, but it looked MUCH better and was pretty inexpensive.

If it sinks down a little, you've got a problem! You could have some aluminum ramps fabricated that would be light enough to remove and store in the barn.

Looking good!! We've had the bulk of our winter snow fall in the last 4 weeks. It's playing havoc on the boys baseball schedule...not to mention your construction project! Cheers...

Thanks for all the reply's! I met with their contractor today and his recommendations aligned with yours. Your input makes me feel more comfortable with what they want to do. Cheers...

Thanks LL. I think I understand the need to isolate the equipment pads from the existing slab. I was going to have them drill into the existing slab every two feet or so and install a rebar dowel so that the two slabs would remain at the same grade with forklifts and such rolling over them...

I have a tenant in a commercial building that wants to install 2 very large milling machines. Each machine requires a 12' x 15' pad that is 12" thick. The existing slab in the building is 5" thick and was poured back in the late 60's. The building is 10,000 SF and the existing slab was saw...

Definitely lay tubing in the entire slab and insulate below with rigid foam board. Be sure to lay your tubing out in zones that separate the living area from the garage area and you will be able to heat them to different temperatures. From a cost perspective, you will save heating $$ by...

Need a clearer picture but that looks like rock wool to me...kind of a mottled black/gray color.

They just don't do as well in school...

Holy **** Batman...thats cool!!! :rocker: