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I was able to get the utility to add a new pole drop with a second meter by getting a seperate address (Unit A) assigned to the detatched garage. The utility even ran the cable at no charge! Way cheaper than upgrading service to the house and then running it back out to the garage.

Installed ours over a wood sub floor and buried it in 1/2" of self leveling concrete before installing the floor tile. If it were going on a slab, I would put 2" of pink formular insulation under the slab if is was going to be a new pour. I imbedded a thermostat in the floor and leave in on...

I did it about 10 years ago in our master bath remodel. A boiler type system didn't make any sense for such a small space so went with electric in floor. All I can say is "AWWWWesome"!!! Added about $25/mo to the winter electric bill.

It sounds like this is a two part epoxy. If that is the case, I would scrape off what has been applied and prep the floor again to be sure that it is back to fresh concrete and start over. If you try and apply overthe top of this it will likely not adhere well. Good Luck

Unfortunately the garage doors are another very weak link. In my commercial complex we had some kids take an ATV and push against the overhead doors of several shops until they popped off the tracks. They kept going until they they ran across one with an alarm system...

15 or 20 minutes ought to keep her happy!!:evil:

:thumbup:I have the gladiators and they are really nice. Love the magnetic doors and the 2 shelves. always seem to be on sale for $99 too.

Unfortunately, I predict this route to just cost you even more $$$...the contractor sounds like he doesn't have the cash even if you win a judgement. Good luck!!

This is generous, Scotty! For anyone who has not used Legacy, I can offer that Scotty is great to deal with. He has answered any number of questions that I tossed out to him on my flooring project. I am waiting on a couple of gallons of clear that he shipped out last week to put the finishing...

Around here bldg dept said to use 12 ga with yellow jacket for gas line. Just did mine this summer.

Something else to consider is that the wider the door, the less rigid it will be. I had a wide roll up on one of my commercial buildings and when the wind blew it would really move in and out. One of the other nearby buildings had one of them blow out of the tracks. I would rather have two...

The pex tubing is very durable. I would only worry if you have any splices in the slab. Keep the pressure test on at 60psi during the pour...it's good piece of mind! Big day...have fun!

Thanks Mate...That's the one I was looking for! :rocker:

I saw a thread on here about someone who built a work bench using several harbor freight tool boxes. The guy used some sort of alum channel. I can't seem to find it now...kanybody save the link? Thanks!

Should say "vintage sears"...:thumbup:

I'm not a designer but I just had attic trusses built for my garage...span 26 1/2' with a 16' wide room. The designer spec'd 2x10 bottom cord and I ended up going with 2x12 bottom cords to limit the deflection. It is solid as Sears!

Blue Ridge is great to work with! Buy a crimping tool, rent the pex stapler and uncoiler...:thumbup:

hire a structural engineer to take a look and do new drawings based on what was built. It shouldn't cost too much unless it's a complicated roof.

I just purchased 80 4'x8' sheets of 2" formular 250 (XPS). I checked all the insulation wholesalers and my neighbor (who is a concrete contractor) checked with his supplier, and none of them could beat Home Depots price. Go figure!!

What happens to the crew that worked that night? Big river, concrete boots...:shocking: All kidding aside, this is a really cool build! Thanks for sharing!!