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It sounds like overkill to bolt them down. I lifted my car with a chinese flush mount, before bolting them to the floor. No issues. As you note, they pick straight up. There’s no overturning moment. Maybe tying them both down to a hefty pair of rectangular beams would be sufficient overkill.

Here’s a tidied up version of my schematic, with component labels. The red shows which wire I moved to disable the air solenoid on the “UP” button. The trick was to disable it only during “UP” functions, yet retain solenoid function on “DOWN”. I had to get help with the wiring logic!

The hydraulic shop fabbed it up for me. A full-size hose same as the actuator pressure lines, with 3/8 JIC fittings, and one adapter to pipe thread to fit the gauge. I guessed at the length in the shop. Then realized I should have done more careful measuring when I went to fit it into my...

On to improvements! I got the pressure gauge hooked up and reading. Plus I got the circuit changed to delete the air solenoid while going up, so now the latch fingers slide and click as I'm raising the car. The air solenoid still engages with the down button. I bought a 1-1500psi hydraulic...

My velocity fuses arrived today at the hydraulic shop. They are "Vonberg" brand with 1/2 to 10 GPM limit. Cost $45 each.

I just had this all done by contractors two weeks ago. Cut out the concrete in one big rectangle. Dig the dirt to form your bunkers, but leave the dirt untouched in the center. Then pour everything at one time, both bunkers plus the center piece. Run your hydraulic pipes along the top of...

I used a Bosch bit from Lowe’s with four cutter blades. Since the 7th hole gave me trouble that does point to something different. I didn’t notice any problem with the 8th hole though. I really think it was just my sloppy hammer work. All of the holes were so easy to drill. It took...

This is the frustrating anchor that spun. I smashed the threads while hammering it into the hole. Tried grinding off the damaged threads but it still wouldn't free the nut. I cut a slot and grabbed it with a screwdriver. After I cleaned up the threads (and held it still using the slot) I got...

I finally saw where the up-limit switch goes. It hits the bar when the lift is fully extended. The bracket was screwed in place backwards, but it was pretty obvious. I had to bend it up a little to hit the bar in the center.

Here are the blocks that came with mine. Also a picture of a light car sitting on the blocks (about 2400 lb car). I've seen them smushed down more depending on which end of the car is heavier.

They’re just amazon cheapies, about $25 each. One of them had a really large air bubble in the gauge. I drained and re-filled with mineral oil.

My lift came with four rubber blocks, about 4 inches tall and maybe 5x8 inch base. You position them under the pinch welds to lift. My buddy says they will split pretty quickly, and he replaced with a polyurethane block that has a relief cut that accepts the pinch weld flange. They’re made...

That’s exactly the depth I set mine also. But I was allowing 1” for the rubber horse stall pad. Turns out they’re only 3/4” thick. (From my local tractor supply) It is amusing that completely different Chinese manufacturers have the precisely same lift dimensions. It makes me wonder who...

I got the cheapest harbor freight rotary hammer for $60 with coupon. And the wrong drill bit from Lowe’s. Turns out the harbor freight drill uses SDS PLUS. Not that it says that anywhere on the box. Each hole took roughly 15 seconds to drill in slightly green concrete. Anchors were all...

Yeah, you got the deluxe model. Mine came with no gauges anywhere. Though I do love my red and yellow switch....the one that's labelled "Switch"! (Edit. Photo shows the two gauges I added myself)

Modifications have already started. Hydraulic and air pressure gauges are drilled and mounted in the console face panel. A Harbor Freight compressed air reservoir is mounted to the side of the console cabinet and hooked up to feed the air solenoids. In-line air check valves are in place (my...

My lift is “off brand” if there is such a thing. Built by Yantai Automas. I measured my threads at home and concluded they were Komatsu 30 degree flare...I was wrong. It’s just best to take a fitting or hose from your lift to the hydraulic store and thread them on. Even the Eaton guy at my...

I ordered “velocity fuses” from my local hydraulic hose supplier. They cost $45 each with 3/8 JIC fittings. They are about 3”’long but I don’t have them in-hand yet.

I got my stall pad trimmed and put in place this afternoon. I'm still waiting for some 6mm air hose pieces before I can hook up my air tank, and start using the pneumatic lock releases. Meanwhile I tied a piece of string to each set of latch hooks and give them a yank when it's time to lower...

In the ground - in just over a week! That's the fastest anything has happened around here! I only cycled the slave two times and it's coming up within one inch of the primary cylinder. I'll bleed it a few more times this weekend. I was surprised it came out that good, I still don't...