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Thanks. I will.

So I just lowered the lifts into the bunkers without any leveling bolts. They all check within .25 inches from side to side, front to back, left lift to right lift. Is that close enough? I guess I could just thread the leveling bolts in from the top to dial them in close and hunt up some...

The leveling bolts came loose in a bag. Here is why I got confused. Too many options...

Silly Chinese TAPPED the base plate to match the anchor bolts. I can’t imagine how They expected me to precision drill the holes without using the base plate as a template. Or maybe those tapped holes are for leveling bolts? I love a good puzzle.

Not sure how hard it is to find a 16mm bit. I was thinking of drilling while the concrete is a little green with 5/8 bit. Tapping the anchors in a place. Then waiting for “full cure” before driving the big nail to spread the anchor and wedge it. I hoped the 4 thou undersize would be...

That’s my question too. I asked my contractor, and he said wait three days. I may set them in the holes and drill in three days (if I can find a 16mm masonry bit). But I’ll probably wait a month (?) before smashing the anchors into the holes.

The contractor said it’s okay to drop the lifts in today - one day after pour. Not sure I’m going to cut it THAT close. But I do want to set them in and get the mount holes drilled before the cement gets....um...hard as rock. :) Labor was $2100. 2 1/2 yards cement was $400. I have no...

Glad you're watching. I'm so excited I have to share with somebody.

Bang. Done in one day! Form boards come out early tomorrow morning. Very happy with the crew that did this work! And after watching them - I'm very glad I did not try to do this myself. It would have taken me 3 months, and I'm sure I would have screwed it up. I'm marking this down as money...

So what I learned by watching how it’s done: Use a gas powered cutter with a masonry blade for the concrete cuts. Cool the blade and keep dust down using a little stream of water from a squirt bottle on each side of the blade. Switch to an abrasive cut off blade for cutting re-bar. Two...

Wow, what a flurry of activity. After waiting 5 months for the lift to arrive, less than a week I have the lift in the driveway and test fired, today this crew of 6 guys has done some very careful and FAST work. They arrived at 7:15 a.m. this morning, cut the floor, dug the holes, built the...

I just got on the fast track last night, contractor said he could cut concrete on Monday morning at 8:00 a.m. He showed up at 7:15 and it's underway! I'll probably hook up all the hydraulics one more time before I set the lifts into the holes. And try to figure out the limit switch...

I found this question from years ago, but no answer. I have the same question - I'm trying to understand how to force air out, when the cylinder does not have a bleed port. Instructions talk about cycling the piston up and down repeatedly to flush air. But the pressure/fill port is at the...

Good question! I got one limit switch loose with the lift (wired up, but not installed to anything). No idea where/how to install it. When I close the switch with my fingers, it disables the pump. I haven't tried to see if it also stops venting to the reservoir (when I lower the lift). I...

Thanks for explanation of “lock”, I was starting to think that buttons were mis-labeled. The oil leakage seemed to be residual oil in the reservoir that leaked through the filler cap after I loaded the control box face-down, but slightly sloping forward. I should have had it loaded standing up!

I’ll leave it alone for now, I was just freaking out when I thought I had no way to lower! But I’ll definitely be adding a set of remote switches on a coiled cord. And maybe a hard switch instead of temporary switch for lowering. I can’t see any real safety reason to stand at the control box...

Laying out overly large PVC for the subterranean hydraulic lines.

I verified the sub cylinder only has a pressure port at the bottom - no vent or other port I can find above the piston. Pictures of all the attachments and ports! Top of the main cylinder (above the piston) Bottom of the main cylinder (below the piston) Bottom of the sub cylinder (below...

That’s exactly where I was headed, confounded why the “down” button would run the pump@!$!$. The schematics in the owners manual uses nonstandard symbols making for a real puzzle. I like your hand drawn solution.

That is very helpful! I’ll try to confirm that’s what mine is trying to do.