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To the OP - erecting the walls and trusses yourself is totally doable. The concept that only by paying a professional can it be done and can be done safe is bogus. Were the pros born with their knowledge? Do they only sell harnesses to pros? Do your research, evaluate your skills and...

Ok, so now go talk to a fabricator/supplier to see if your style works like you drew. Those will likely have to come as multiple pieces due to shipping widths.

Why are you proposing a ridge beam? rather than a ridge board? https://www.techsupport.weyerhaeuser.com/hc/en-us/articles/207291947-Ridge-Beam-vs-Ridge-Board-?mobile_site=true Are you planning on a ridge vent? Are you planning to finish the inside of the second floor? I'd frame it with the...

I don't have a writeup on my build - I've been too busy building it! Maybe someday... Mine is a little unusual ... I had a garage that either needed a whole lot of work or needed to be replaced. That garage was storing a whole lot of things that didn't want to get wet. So, I built around it...

When I was designing and planning mine, I talked to a rep who knew enough about both I-joists and floor trusses. I wanted a clear span of 32' with no supports (including no center beam), he strongly recommended floor trusses due to bounce/vibration. Particularly when I mentioned I might have...

If you're overhang is as large as the pic that 'QuikKota' posted then the answers can be a whole lot different than if you only have a couple inch overhang ... I'd fold the Tyvex in first on all 4 sides - if you're going to tape all 4 sides in the end anyways, then you'd be trapping any...

I agree with the manifolds. One after the filters (cold) and one after the water heater. Then separate pex everywhere - this way you have a handy central location to shut off each individual lines. Yes, my experience is 2x4 is too tight to bend a 90 as a stub-out. Plus I prefer the...

Adding width to your beam does not make up for a lack of height. i.e. a 4x6 or 6x6 are not comparable to laminated 2x10s or 2x12s just because they have the same area. Another benefit of the laminated beam is that you can make it continuous more easily than a single 4x6 by staggering the...

Suggest building a ladder frame on the ground. Screw the one side to the standard truss/rafter and the other becomes your fascia.

Scissor trusses were about $40-$50 cheaper than gable end trusses at a 32' span. I went with all scissor. I don't see any reason for a double top plate. This wall is not carrying any vertical load. Its picking up perpendicular wind and resisting parallel shear. Balloon framing will...

Pictures?

it probably depends on what you use the garage for, the size, etc.... in-floor heat floor anchor pots 2" receivers - for vice stands, etc.

Any names for companies to buy direct from? the ones I've come across in searching are: Discount Metal Roofing Corrugated Metals Inc. Union Corrugated Company

How about a scissor lift or midmount lift? Which can also be recessed into the floor to further hide it when not in use. This way you won't have to worry about working around the posts/arms. People discount these for work directly under the belly of the vehicle, but although not ideal, I...

What size car/truck are you going to lift? With the posts that close to the wall, how much room will you have to walk or work around the vehicle? You're not going to have room to walk around the outside of the post so you'll be working and walking between the posts and the vehicle. I had a...

They make them that large. Just need to look around: http://www.lifetimedoor.net/garage-doors/large-overhead-garage-door-installation-wi/ I don't think you'd notice a measureable difference letting heat out opening a double door vs opening a single door. Yes, you're going to lose more heat...

You shouldn't need an interior support. Just let the truss designer know that you want it as a clear span. I'd go with an 18' door. Less hardware/one garage door opener/ and more options for where to pull in. I like the style. How about a haydoor for the loft instead of a window?

Standing seam seems to be significantly expensive than traditional metal roofing. Probably about 2x or more. Its the screws that will give you trouble in the future, so how about replacing the screws every 5 - 10 years whether they need it or not? How about either spacing your trusses at 4'...

Looking good. Anything you've already noticed that you would have done differently? On the insulation, I typically cut around the boxes so I'm not compressing the insulation. And i'll staple the facing to the front of the studs so I can try to create a solid barrier. Are you stapling to the...

Other than the posts, I wouldn't use PT lumber. Locally we seem to get #2 grade that's close to a #1 for non-PT lumber at the big box stores. Either that or the PT is so poor that the non-PT looks better and better. For those calculators - you use the wet service condition if you're designing...