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After some research, apparently this thing is called a "kebiki" and is still sold: https://osakatools.com/products/marking-gauge-kebiki-with-2-blades

Picked this up at a flea market in Tokyo... looks vintage, probably hand made. Has some faint markings on it that I cannot read. Double blades, maybe for scoring the work piece?

Thanks guys for all the ideas. I've done my share of rust removal in the bast and actually have 5 gal of evaporust in the garage... but I'm just not willing to do all that for these shelves. I'm really looking for the lowest effort for an acceptable result. 30 minutes seems to be a good...

Scored this awesome vintage metal shelf unit. I actually like the original look, but the crusty shelves might be a problem. I'd be tempted to matte clear coat it, but I don't think that would work... I'm not interested in making this a big project. I'm thinking pressure wash, dry and wipe it...

FWIW, the two Home Depot units I have lasted 8 and 10 years. I'll look at RAB. But a quick look shows at least some of that is also made in China. Personally, I don't care where it's made, provided it is well made.

My motion sensing flood light has been failing and it's time for a new one. I think this one lasted about 8 years. IMO, a fixture should last way more than 8 years. Yeah, I know the sensor is sensitive... but I still would like it to last longer. If you look closely at the sensor in the picture...

Does your workmate have the button shown in the diagram? The pictures you posted don't show that... what's on the opposite side from your pictures?

I'm concerned the very aggressive shape of the RBRT stuff will mar the fasteners... I often work on vintage stuff. Can anyone comment on how the RBRT stuff works at the proper torque settings? Are the fasteners marred? Maybe I'll try the X-Tract. I do like the Wera Hex-Plus that I have been...

Interesting, I hadn't seen the RBRT / Grip Edge / RBT / OGV stuff. They all look the same? Maybe the same patent / license...? If you have used these can you comment: Do the stick in the fastener, like a regular hex will after tightening?

I recently bought a set of Wera metric L hex keys. They have some kind of "hex-plus" shape that avoids driving the corners of the screw head's inside hex socket. Man, I like these things! They actually seem less prone to getting stuck in a deforming bolt head (as my standard hex sockets...

Thanks for all the great ideas gang! I really like those Stahlwille closed end wrenches, but the price is significant for an "backup use only" tool. Today I stumbled on a pair of old wrenches on ebay. They look rough, but might fit the bill until something better comes along. And they were...

Does anyone use open wrenches when they can use a socket or closed end wrench?

Also, why are these only available as offset wrenches?

Why do I only find these in "offset" wrenches?

I just got an e-bike and I want to carry a lightweight toolkit with me on rides. Strangely, all the bolts/nuts are odd sizes: 13, 15, 17 and 19mm. I'd love to find a set of double ended closed or box wrenches... for example: one with 13mm and 15mm on opposite ends, and another with 17mm and 19mm...

I realized my wheel was scrapping the workmate's wood surface. Not such a big deal, but it's nice to be able to easily rotate the wheel and i wouldn't want to scrape up some of the fancier wheels. I've seen some wheel changers have a big plastic / nylon disks... so I took a jigsaw and drill to...

Hah, that would be a tall lift!

Next time I might slide piece of heavy plastic or something down the rod to protect the wood surface of the workmate and the wheel. I have an old plastic/nylon cutting board I could drill a hole in...

I really don't know why it didn't occur to me before!

For some reason, after years of using a milk crate, I finally realized my Workmate might make a good tire changing stand... I have a vintage Workmate 79-001 Type 2 (WM625) with replaced jaws. I bought a 12" long piece of 1/2" stainless steel round bar, and I filed a small V in one side of the...