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I'm a retired plumber and the price seems right to me.Have at it with a shovel and see how long it takes,everybody thinks it's just a hole and easy to dig.My theory these days are I'll give you a price or T+M and if you say no so be it,but call me after you've tried and failed or gave up and my...

It appears that they back vented the toilet with a 3" vent that travels up in the wall and probably out the roof maybe picking up some other vents along the way.You CANNOT tie into that 3" vent in the basement,if the toilet that it's venting were to backup the overflow would flow into your new...

When you cut the ledger board for the back wall don't cut it 5' long,leave some room at each end to have your hand on the tub.If you try walking the tub across the floor with it out if the crate there is a chance of the porcelain chipping at the edge of the tub.If it's a K-715/16 tub memory says...

Bad wax ring on the toilet maybe?

If you bring the waste line up dead on center of the urinal and put a 2" C.O/box tee in the wall looking out at the drain height using a 2" **** ****** it works in a 2 x 4 wall,it's tight but it works,have done it a couple of times in the past.

1-You don't need to locate the MB stack,you need to find a vent in the basement that travels to the upper floors,or use an AAV valve. 2-Probably because that was how I was taught,they're not legal in my area.People bury them in walls and it's a mechanical fitting........... 3-Not really the...

40 plus years as a licensed State of Illinois plumber with a Chicago license too will do that to you.Hell Chicago is still C.I. pipe with lead and oakum poured joints on anything over 3 stories.

He said the master is above the new washer location,I'm just not a fan of AAV's.He can tie into the vent stack for the basement bath,master bath vent bar or the new bath which will have walls torn up in it anyway.

Where is the 1/2 bath you want to convert in relation to where you want to move the washer to,is it right above it?

The lead free brass ball valves can be a little bit more difficult to swt.,I've had no problems using the Harris Bridgit solder on the lead free valves.

I've done a few when I was still working but they were in monster houses,usually they had a 200 gal. plus tank,one had 2-250 gal. tanks.They seemed to work well,houses usually had very large showers with multiple heads.

The OP hasn't replied after 2 days,hopefully he took all of the leaking unnecessary fittings off and just swt copper straight into the valve like it's designed to be done.

That's a Moen Posi-temp valve,should have been able to make a swt. joint at the valve body instead of using I.P. adapters.............

Get a foot or two of copper attached to the heater cold and hot and the relief should be piped with a metallic pipe and down.Eliminate all of the roller coaster turns and neaten it up.Whats under the grey wrapped up lines coming out of the wall?

There are battery strip lights available at a certain Swedish store that work perfect in an armoire,they activate when the door is opened last pretty good and have decent output.

Go by the instructions,some Sterling units get caulked and some don't.Over the years I have literally installed thousands of their units and never had a problem with them installed as per directions.

Run the 1 1/2" traps tied together at the 2",2 traps on the same level should be good with a common vent.A C.O at the trap is worthless with no access to it,if they backup rod it through the overflow plate,that's what it's for.

Yes if the plywood/underlayment meets Ditras specs. http://pdf.lowes.com/installationguides/4011832107092_install.pdf

Did 2 bathrooms floors and walls with their product one with floor heat.Very easy to use,don't cheap out on the thinset,I'd recommend it any day.

If it doesn't drain to daylight out side it should be going to a p trap inside somewhere.Are you on a slab or basement/crawl?