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CPVC is just fine for potable/ cold water. Good for Hot too but I wouldn't run it all the way into a tankless unit personally. I like to cut it with a hacksaw or bandsaw personally, shears seem like they work harden the edge and don't give me a straight cut all the way through.

I have Proto and like them. Were cheap with a Zoro coupon

When you have good enough fixtures in place, ballast bypass is the way to go. I got tombstones off Amazon from Jackyled, tubes from 1000bulbs. If you are buying two cases, get in touch with a rep and ask for a discount. For me it was always enough to cover either taxes or shipping.

Just depends on how many hours per year you use them. at my commercial building we had lots of replacement fluorescent tubes- but the hours spent changing tubes and ballasts, plus the energy cost made it a no-brainer to direct wire LED everything. 400 tubes (a little over 100 fixtures) and two...

I am a big robertson/ square drive fan. Phillips does kinda ****, but you can engage them off-axis quite a bit easier. I think they all have their place, but as far as drywall screws I prefer square. Deck screws and powerlags I prefer torx, althought #3 phillips is also pretty good. #1 and #2...

Ha...no

Nice resource. I use Polycase enclosures from time to time. They can be a little pricey as well but if you need Nema rated/ Nema 4x and what not it's a good bet https://www.polycase.com/nema-4x-enclosures?p=3

This is almost exactly the same as the apprentice mechanic who wants to buy a Snap-On 72" box. 99/100 times it's gonna end up on CL 6 months later. The idea of starting a business centered around something you have little knowledge of and no experience is also a little concerning- particularly...

For you.... NEC 2002 here

I need some sort of link to this information...Everything I have ever seen shows fiberglass performs better at low temperatures..same with mineral wool type insulation. Listen cellulose is frickin cheap and it works, no arguments from me there. Like I said earlier I just chose mineral wool for...

Ok so more information is probably needed about the construction and layout...What is the truss construction like? What is the spacing? Is the roof just steel over purlins, or is it sheathed? Are you venting the 'attic' or sealing and conditioning it? etc

Re: Whats your best guess for your tool collection replacement cost? naxalt

Buy a cheapie, watch some Jodi from weldingtipsandtricks or if Chucke2009 videos are still on youtube etc. There is more free info at weldingweb and youtube than you could ever consume. I took a welding class at our local college to fulfill an election credit. And yeah it was worthwhile, but...

Big R is now Stock & Field- I went in over the weekend to get a pair of wire strippers- I left both of mine at work and needed them fast. They had completely wiped out their Tekton selection, almost all the Amsoil, all kinds of tools and implements. They replaced Tekton with some other chinese...

Another terminology nitpick- Refrigerant not Coolant...

Maybe I'm a little jaded but I can't believe you thought talking to a store employee would solve anything. Practically no one at any big box store knows or cares about anything construction related. For that matter practically no one knows or cares about anything related to their job period...

Nice find. I will be picking some up for my garage from the looks of it. I have used the same insul-fill before. I chose it for Fire, water and rot resistance. Did not mind the extra cost since it was 20 bags total. For this price you'd be crazy to choose cellulose or fiberglass IMO. I rented...

Jesus Mary and Joseph... sorry you are dealing with this, gotta be a real headache. At least you got GJ to commiserate/ support:rocker:

Agreed here- R-23 in the walls is good. r30 in the ceiling is not ideal. For Upstate NY i think you would be looking at R-49 to meet most codes/ recommendations