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finally wired up my 3phase table saw. VFD seemed intimidating, but turned out to be simple enough... standing by to watch a 12" blade get wound up to speed by a 5hp motor after only ever using a 10" blade @ 4hp however... now that is intimidating. new level of awareness & safety has been...

I'm currently looking for a new mig machine. hobby/home use also. my criteria is; dual voltage bonus if; multi process, (arc, mig & DC tig, not that I can tig but if it has it great) ya that's it. I want to be able to use it in my shop, buddies farm, off the genny, etc. not sure if the new...

did the crack result in a fork? exagerated obviously, but does it look like a "Y" or is it just a pressure crack that starts & ends in the main trunk? there are right & wrong ways of fixing a crack, sometimes you just support each side together but with a "lasso" around each that can slip...

for that sized garage grab the electric hard mount it to ceiling, use it when you need it and forget about it the rest of the time. no seasonal storage, moisture issues, not AS noisey, etc. if you are in the shop anyway you are probably using electricity... what's a bit more now & then?

yes, seen those, just curious about "Harry's" experience. Not worried about learning curve, as I have thought about them... just looking at other options. thanks

I was using Ebony Grit, from our local TSC Store. I tested it out on an inside piece, was working fine so I went to it. After blasting everything, I used the 8" wire wheel on the bench grinder to get the finish the way it is. site specs; 55LB OPTICA MINERALS EBONY GRIT - Ebony Grit is produced...

How do you like the Harry's razor setup? I have been thinking about trying it out. Having to be clean shaven for work, and buying new high priced gillete blades doesn't impress me.

well as the plug shows, this is NOW just used for mixing paints, mud, grout, etc... so nothing that should cause any arm twisting. the one time I did use it to "try" and bore through some wood it didn't have enough speed to "cut" into the wood so it just bit in and quickly twisted out of my...

have had this old slow speed high torque drill for a while. Mor-Power distributed by Canadian Tire got it a few years ago , tonight decided to; disassemble, clean, media blast, wire wheel, regrease, assemble and put back on the shelf to last another lifetime. some grease was very dirty...

I'm in Ontario, east 1hour of GTA. IF you are going to heat it at all, insulate as much as you can. Walls & Attic both. I would go with option #3, or #1 if you spend the time and effort to lay the vapour barrier (vb) properly. Loose so it gets into the corner, but also tapped ao it actually is...

finding an outlet shouldn't be a problem. looks good,from start to where you are.

finished up my controls, wiring and everything for the snowblower attachment on my lawn tractor. powered chute rotation & chute deflector.

does efficiency come into play? don't see FLA (full load amps)

homes have interior walls which aid in sideloads, wind forces, etc. homes also don't have 12' tall walls. your additional points/tips are worth while, but 2x6 are the "better" choice for all the reasons people have provided already.

we have cold winters up here, Ontario Canada that is. nothing to do with cold & insulation, but with 9' ceilings, 24x36 building everytime I close my doors... the whole wall shakes. 2x4 walls... ugh. go 2x6, if only for the added rigidity, stiffness... piece of mind.

if not that idea, what I did in old house was to remove the full width hanging rod, and replace with 2 rods on the left side (so 2x 28" long for yours on left) and a single full length rod on the right side (1x 28" long on your right side) you would end up with 84" of hanging space. but then...

guess it depends on the machine, no idea about the BP, but the table I built for my lathe (Myford ML7) I added leveling bolts under each attachment point. you can level your table and still find your lathe beds may be just a touch off. each lathe mount has this setup under it, to level each...

2x4 sill and top plate 2x3 inner and outer walls, stagger each stud so 1 is inner wall, next is outer drywall inner wall sound deadening insulation drywall outer wall drywall ceiling, add insulation above drywall, OSB top (OSB so you can store stuff on top

what?! come on, that's only -8*C. walk out to shop, turn heater on (and get fire started) back inside to change into shop clothes 15-20minutes later it should be around 50*F (10* for rest of us) nice temp to keep you moving while you're out there... maybe get it to 55*F if working with your...

so far, works great. compresses more where needed, less where not needed. certainly better than the thin rubber "seal" that would deform around a slug if one were under it. I don't expect any different than what you say, but if I get a few years out of it, it's just a few $$ to replace anyway...