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funny you mention the hydrant. i was planning on using that for the sugarhouse when i build it next year. super simple... i have read on here that the biggest problem with frost free hydrants is they will go bad in 5-15 years, and then you have to dig them up. typically the biggest issue is not...

a couple things... i changed the location of the stairs. i like the location suggestion of having them run along the clean room wall. that way i can make the upstairs area to the left (above the clean room and auto tool area) a storage area... and then the gym area in the center, and office...

Thanks Ben. Stair location: I like the idea about putting them along the clean room wall. frozen pipes: interesting ... didnt know that a 2" pad of insulation on the outsides of the poured walls (36" below grade) would keep the frost out entirely... along with a heated building. good to...

I plan on digging a 42" trench to get below the frost line for utilities. The trench will go from the house to the new garage... Maybe a 75 foot run. I plan on putting the 3/4" pex water line down at 42in, and then a #2 urd for 100 amp service at 24". 2" conduit for running coax cable , cat...

I thought of the idea of spiral in the front left corner of the garage for sure. and then i could have some sort of dumbwaiter for lifting up boxes. But to me i feel like im just complicating something simple. i do that all the time:eyecrazy:. there will be enough space between the toys to...

thats a good point. ill keep solar in mind in case i go down that route. doubtful since the panels would be facing north on the eve side where i would put them... i realized the edited stairway in my photo wont work without a landing and a 90 degree turn since the trusses are going east/west...

Good News. Only cost $20 more per truss to beef up the floors form 40 to 80psf. They are sending me schematics soon on what it would take to beef up the trusses for real dormers instead of fake dormers.

thanks guys. armstrr, as for the foundation, the link you sent helped out a lot. the attached pic from the article helped. i was under the impression the insulation foam (2" foam board) was on the inside of the block walls. shows you how much i know... glad to hear the feedback on the...

Thoughts on my stair placement in the pic at post 84?

Notice how I'm calling the back room the "clean room" instead of the beer room. Have to sell it to the boss!

that is a good point. i think ill have ample storage in this place, but youre right. at the old house, above the door storage was all i had aside from the basement.

i also moved the stairs so that they would enter in the center of the 48' deep garage. this might be advantageous since someone who just wants to go upstairs to exercise or myself to work in the office, wont have to weave around toys to get to the stairs in the back. let me know your thoughts...

An update from the above post. I just talked to the garage door people and he recommended high lift track so I can take that 8-foot door and bring it close to the 12-foot ceiling. He told me he only needs 7 ft of ceiling depth for that garage door to open against the ceiling. In other words, if...

another question. I plan on putting a 2 post clear-floor lift on the right side where the 16x8 door is. I assumed i wanted the posts ~18' in from the garage door, and 4' from the right wall. i figured this so that with an asymmetrical lift (70% of the vehicle is behind the 2 post columns), that...

thanks for the reply. im not sold on radiant floor heating for the simple purpose you brought up in a previous post: heating the downstairs with tubing is not going to heat the upstairs, which is where ill spend the most frequent amount of time. However... it seems putting 2" foam under the...

my theory was based on when i needed a permit for my old outbuilding and deck at the old house. the sonotubes needed to be 42" below grade. so i dug 12"x42" deep holes to put the outbuilding on. like said, im not to savvy with foundations and terminology.

got it. i just know i need permits and they require 42" footers for our area. thanks for the help.

so i took a few pics of the site so you know what im working with over here. the orange circles are the rough corners for the 36x48' deep building. itll be situated 25' from the driveway pad. the 56x40 pad separates the new garage from my attached garage... so the new garage would be about 55'...

Thanks for the practical advise,TooMany. ill be happy just to have a roof over my head where im not tripping on **** all the time. "moving stuff to get to stuff" is the story of my life... :) I was under the impression that 2" foam underneath the 4in pad might be a good idea, regardless of the...

thanks for the response. we are in the prelim stages right now. he gave me a quote for the following: 3,000 psi concrete with wire mesh 4" thick floor with tamped gravel underneath block walls with gravel wash for drainage. drain tile im sure he has some sort of footer planned for this but...