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Doing ball joint replacements in the Rust Belt might be "Hard Time" but it isn't prison!

I just use an empty one gallon oil jug. It rides in the toolbox of my truck, and has the site gauge to show fuel level. With a little practice you can trickle in fuel to top off your saw, or do the high-pour like a truck stop waitress.

In my corner of the Pacific Northwest, even if you gave everybody a brand new vehicle, the roads would still resemble a Mad Max movie. Between landslides, fallen trees, roadkill, poor highway maintenance, and stuff blowing out of pickup trucks, it is truly the Wild West!

I think I'd start with one of the $50 ballpark Chinese sets like Amazon and others sell. I might add a 3/4" drive socket set as well. Sometimes the height of a socket comes in handy to clear obstructions, and there is the additional feature of being able to use them as sockets.

I think our OP should buy whatever he wants, and throw in some Koken Pathfinder sockets in 8, 10, 12, and 14mm. Those should cover the most used sizes. They ought to be able to withstand the neutral drop, bleach burnout, impact technique!

Having started out with SK roundhead ratchets, the lever direction debate is funny to me!

Koken Engineers analyzing socket for warranty claim: "It appears to have been neutral dropped" "What???................no warranty! "We are done here!" muttered expletives not translated.

Reamers work way better than drill bits for small increment hole enlargement. How many thousandths are you going up in hole size?

No Japanese carburetor screws are touched with a non-Vessel screwdriver by me! If it is nighttime, I use my glow-in-the-dark model...........just in case the power goes out.

Any decent floor jack will be a breeze compared to cranking up a scissor jack. (and lowering is super easy ) I wouldn't get too hung up on jack capacity. I'd think you will be lifting one corner of your van at a time. Jack one corner, set a jack stand. Jack the next corner and the front or...

I honestly never thought about the effort required to pump it. I guess that means it is about the norm for a floor jack. It has a nice long handle, not one of those small ones, like some super cheap jacks have.

Small planes use 28 VDC, large planes use 28 VDC, and 120 VAC 3 phase. A few circuits run on different voltages, which are stepped down from the 120 VAC, and rectified as required if they are DC.

I've got one of these HF lightweight floor jacks. https://www.harborfreight.com/automotive/jacks-jack-stands/floor-jacks/15-ton-low-profile-aluminum-racing-floor-jack-with-rapid-pump-64545.html It weighs 33 lbs and easily lifts my stuff, for tire changes, brake work etc.

It is running really rich as indicated by the "4-stroking" rough running. The soaked filter indicates overly pressurized fuel tank, or a drooling main jet. Both of these symptoms point to too much fuel being delivered. Put the original carburetor back on it. It ran a week ago, and the Amazon...

Poke all the holes in wires you want shade tree guys!

So, if I'm right next to that GDI wire, I either look for ground on the wire I'm troubleshooting all the way from the batt/bus. If the wire is open to ground. I power off the vehicle, and shoot to ground from the connector. If I then have a good ground, I re-term the connector on the batt side...

In the Aerospace world, piercing a wire on purpose is cause for disciplinary action. There are non-destructive ways to test the system.

1. Remove the handle 2. Cut the head off the screw 3. Cut a slot in the screw shank with a Dremel type cutoff wheel 4. Turn headless slotted screw in until it falls out 5. Remove screw shank with a magnet 6. Study why screw couldn't;t be screwed out of hole in L/H direction 7. Based on #6 above...

Please, NEVER pierce a wire! Back-probe the connector, or disconnect the connector and look for power on the wire in the direction of the battery/fuse block. Look for ground in the other direction. Hook your meter ground to a good ground on the car, and set the meter to 20V scale when looking...

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