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Thanks everyone. Not my favorite job...drywall Reason I don't think I can mud just to edge of boxes is there will then be a step nd I think it would look like **** when I put covers on. I'll spend some time taping the boxes closed and pretend they're not there until I get the final mud finish on.

I lacked foresight when locating ceiling receptacles I now have to deal with taping the seams while not filling the receptacle openings. Does anyone have a trick to mud these seams? Blue painters tape and then cutting through tape to reopen them? Thanks

Thanks for the advice everyone. Great forum here to get ideas from folks! Especially Mike, Sparky and PCustoms. I really appreciate the positive suggestions.

I will have to do a small bend in the PVC but nothing drastic. I've successfully put bends in this size with a heat gun in the past. Actually did that on the main panel in the basement where... shocker... I installed the PVC all the way to the panel before pulling the feeds! : )

Yep, I thought of that but locating the PVC before the slab was poured and before the masons arrived to do their part boggled my mind : ) It's just a shop/garage. Hopefully it won't be in the way where I located it.

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Yep, that's been emphasized in this thread. I don't think it will make any finishing difference for me but good to know for the future.

Thanks. I think that is my plan (floor to ceiling) going forward. I can hide the branch circuits coming into the box from below and make adding additional circuits from above much easier to finish off. I'm about a month from closing in the walls so I have time to think about future proofing...

Thus the quotation marks...

They are in the wall and originally were going to exit the wall cavity left and below the panel location. That can be changed. I still have empty stud walls. I've temporarily mounted the panel to make sure I'm cutting branch circuits long + enough. I was planning on entering the panel on the...

7/16" OSB

Thanks. All of my branch circuits enter from above the stem wall and entering the panel on the left side, so I'll do that but build the wall below and to the left. This is a sub-panel. Can you explain the issue with finishing the last three feet of conduit into the enclosure? I'm not seeing...

Looking for simple design idea to enclose the branch wires from a load center to the ceiling. I am surface mounting the panel. I want full insulation in the wall behind the panel. I'm running PVC conduit to a side or bottom mount for feed wires into the load center. I'm looking for simple...

Thanks for the reply. I'm a few months away from installing the brickwork so will continue to search for clay but I am happy to hear that concrete will work with some care during mortaring. It's only around 40 sq ft so I'm sure I can finesse the mortar without too much difficulty.

Beautiful brick work. I have a question about brick laying. I have a 50+ yo home and have brick wainscot on the front of the home. I'm building a garage and wanted to "match" the brick wainscot as close as possible but the local brick supplier (Hockers, Green Bay) doesn't have anything real...

Thanks guys. I'll follow Matt's sequence of drip edge under the ice and water membrane. Yes I'm using the synthetic underlayment as well. On a "This Old House" episode about drip edge they suggested the drip edge should be spaced away from the roof edge about a finger's width. They did a...

First garage build in 40+ years. Things have changed a bit since I "winged it" back then. Trusses are up, plumbed and spaced as closely as they're going to be. I've finished installing 2x6 sub-facia and will finish 1x8 facia today. I'm thinking about next steps in the build so I've thrown...

Haha, that's my middle name... OverThink! I managed to pull them all plumb but I'm sure I'll have a pipe clamp handy when sheathing for the expected curvy truss. Adding sub-facia work then on to sheathing, underlayment and shingles. Making slow progress...

Thanks... That's what I thought you meant. I'm going to measure the peak at the gable ends today and determine if they are close to 28'. They are both plumb. I'll start at the front of the garage and measure across making adjustments and anchoring with 2x4 bracing pre-marked with 24' centers...

Thanks all. By "... remove what you've done..." You mean don't remove the steel spacers? They hold the top cord very firmly. I'm not sure fighting them to move the cord would be a good idea during elevated work but I have not tried anything like that.