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We generally get 400 sqft out 50 lbs of larger 1/4" flake as well.

It comes already set up and boxed on a pallet. Two guys can unload it from a pickup. Just unload, unbox, screw on the handle and you are ready to go. It also comes with drawer liners and some paper strips if you want to label the front of the drawers.

You only mention Epoxy.....why do you discriminate against other great chemistries? Polymer Coating is a much more PC term and applies to urethanes and acrylics as well. My garage has an elastomeric urethane terrazzo with acrylic aggregates, so I am a little sensitive when people just call it...

1. After you press the tape down rub back and forth over the edge closest to the epoxy. That will get the adhesive to seal well and help minimize bleed under the tape edge. 3. Use masking tape or painters tape on baseboards and you can pre-cut where you want to pull the tape off of. It is...

100 grit is not very aggressive, it is usually used for smoothing or polishing. If possible, get some diamonds that are more coarse. I usually use 30 grit for cutting. You can use a 60 grit and get a decent profile, 30 grit is good for prep but may leave some scratch marks that show through...

Wow, you lucked out. Scraping up uncured epoxy coating is punishing.

If you had any left in the bucket or paint tray, that should cure faster. But if their is no change after an hour you are probably in a whole lot of trouble.

OK, Thanks. It's a little further but might be worth a trip down there.

How is the Newark store? I went to the Franklin Mills PA store and it is not in a nice section of town.

Picked one up yesterday from Philly store. Price in store was $399, but I showed them my online cart and the honored the price + coupon. Not bad for $280

Basically, just rub back and forth along the edge of the tape to get a good seal. If you rub back and forth quickly and get a little heat going, the tape will seal well along the edge and your coating will not bleed under the tape edge.

I have had a few people insist that the coating go to the edge of the slab - outside of the door (it yellows / discolors). I second 51rider's idea of marking the back of the door when closed and then tape a quarter inch behind that point. When you close your door, you can duct tape the bottom...

It depends on the urethane. Some can be dip and roll applied out of a 5 gallon bucket or paint tray. Others you will need to pour a bead on the floor, squeegee it and then roll it. I would call the manufacturer for more information - if it is a moisture cure coating and you try to dip and...

Looks great!

That is true. My company usually does flakes into the base resin and then one tight coat of sealer if you want the sharps to poke through and add texture. If you want to smooth it out, do one coat of sealer, sand it with 80 or 100 grit and then seal it again - gets a nice smooth finish. Not...

I just looked at your picture again, it is tough to see any bad spots. Keep in mind the gloss from the clear sealer will help conceal your uh-ohs by refelcting light from some angles. Does the background resin match one of the flake colors? If so you may be fine with just the sealer.

By thin spots, do you mean areas that are a little light on flake? I usually brush on some clear sealer on the bad spots, sprinkle some flakes where needed and then brush on more clear sealer on top, careful not to disturb the newly placed flakes. Then you apply sealer to the rest of the...

A full broadcast flake into epoxy floor would give you the texture you need and you can dial in the texture with the thickness of the topcoats you put on it. Full broadcast flake would be easier to clean than silica grit in a sealer or a full broadcast sand aggregate floor. What type of clean...

I just bought two of the smaller version last weekend. You will definitely need a sturdier work surface on top, the partical board will not hold up. Also, these are fine for light duty work, but you could never stand on the workbench to get something off a shelf, the supports would warp. But...

Polyaspartics are good sealers, but they are very hard for one person DIY. Get good instructions from the vendor so you know the pointers on how to extend working time. If it is a moisture cured aspartic then do not install on a humid day. The sealer I work with is nice because you can leave...