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If you cool it down too much, some epoxies will not flow nicely and it can lead to coverage problems or aesthetic issues. Check the manufacturer's literature to see the install temperature range. I am glad you decided to scrape up the uncured stuff. I have seen many undermixed floors, and...

It's terrazzo. The nice part about terrazzo is you can go back every 10 years or so and grind off the coatings and dirt and reseal the floor, making it look brand new. The bad part about cementitious and epoxy terrazzo is that they are fairly brittle and can crack. If you look hard enough...

Actually, now that I think about it, it's your house and if you are not in a hurry you could use a smaller sander to do the same thing. It would just take much longer. Call the epoxy manufacturer and make sure a sand and recoat is OK and you won't have any adhesion issues.

Taking care of the fibers is not too hard. You can burn them ahead of time like you mentioned. The other way is to put down a primer, let it cure and then use a rotary scrubber / sander with some 80 or 100 grit sand paper to knock down all the fibers that stick through the primer. Then vacuum...

I'm sure center stands would probably dig into the floor - it's designed for softness primarily. It has stood up to jacks, jackstands and all the other abuse I've dished out so far.

Thanks for the kind words guys. We actually used to test stuff in people's garages and basements, but we spent too much time shot blasting and grinding just to do a few hundred square feet at a time. The floor is actually a terrzzo material. It is made of of an elastomeric resin and the...

Thanks for checking out my garage. I finally decided to put some pictures up. I develop polymer floor materials for a living and teach crews how to install them. One of the nice benefits of my job is that I got to test out a new product at my house. What do you think?

work?

Smokey, You might want to look into a moisture supression coating. There are versions out there from Ardex, Koster, Mappei and others. The trick is finding one that is compatible with a good vinyl adhesive. Some (like Ardex) require you to put a layer of cementitious self leveler on top of...

I have not seen sealers used. All of the PVC Tile floors I have seen were just hammered in place with a mallet and then you can beat them up right away. If you wreck a tile or two, you just pull them up and put in a new one.

Disclaimer: I do have a connection to Ecoloc. The company that owns the company that owns my company also owns Ecoloc. Additional disclaimer: I have absolutely no desire to sell anything to anyone at anytime. T Square Tiles is the US distributor for Loctile / Ecocloc. I do not think they...

That could be your problem. Some epoxies get viscous at lower temperatures and can be very difficult to roll out evenly. If the air temperature was in the 50s, the slab temperature was likely lower and the material can get thick quickly when poured on a cold slab. I am glad you checked with...

I don't think the clear coat will hide that. A broadcast to near rejection is very difficult for a beginer to do. It is much easier to broadcast to refusal and sweep up the excess. It is also more expensive. I do not have experience with the Alpha coatings, but I have plenty of experience...

And to the OP - Looks great and completely custom. Very impressive work with just a circ saw and router.

I was about to say that I don't remember saying that when I realized I didn't. I like your screen name.

Yeah, not so hot for garages. It is harder to slide heavy equipment on soft rubber floors. Plus, I think that stuff is porous for water to flow through, what would happen if you spilled oil on it? My company uses epdm rubber in some of our floors and you have to be careful because they will...

Re: Advise part 2(forgive the lengthy post} And by tiles, I think Edger means floating tiles like Racedeck. I have to agree with Edger on the course of action as well. Keep the balance unless they agree to completely remove what is there and do a mechanical prep and remediate the crack before...

Pour N Restore is a product made for this type of clean up. You pour it on the stain and let it dry. It allegedly pulls the oil up and then you sweep away the dry residue. It is pretty expensive though (I think it was over $25/gal) and it took 6 applications to clean the oil spill I had to...

Yeah, but that floor will be a bear to clean without a clear coat. You would need a pressure washer or floor scrubber to get the dirt off.

I have fixed this type of mistake a thousand times (I train rookie crews how to install polymer floors). Hopefully you plan to add a clear sealer to the floor. You can apply clear to the missed spot and broadcast flakes in that small patch. Sweep up the excess after it is cured and then Clear...