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Those long beads. See how they would go if you began with the electrode at 90 degrees-straight up and down. Then tilt off of that vertical only about 15 degrees. Start the arc and drag the rod away from weld being careful not to outrun the puddle. Homerun.

Check out Halo EFX.

Wray Schelin Pro Shaper has a kit to modify the standard ones for sale. Though it may be overkill, it’s worth looking at his mods to see what ideas one could use.

The pop-rivet thing.....Cherrymax rivets, Aviation grade and from Aircraft Spruce, are every bit as strong a fastener as the solid ones in that regulator. That’s a low buck alternative.

Keep going on that. What a great repurposing project. The action that might have seen and the places it’s been would be fun to know.

Every auto paint store has a clearance rack. Gallon cans of some mis-match or color some customer changed their mind on. They are a big price break but limited in color choice.

Sometimes the trick is figuring out the nomenclature. Those rubber things with threaded studs used to isolate shock and vibration? They are called Sandwich Mounts. Go figure.

White Out Correction pens are very useful for steel marking. They don’t burn off when you’re using a torch. The pens, not the brush White Out. Amazon pack of four was very cheap. And an extra vote for Markal. They have different colors to fill the holder.

I’m scouring around to first find a salvage heavy duty frame that is skeletized and I can get it for scrap pricing. Off of someone’s back lot kind of thing. If successful, it will save me the drudgery of drilling so many holes. With that, I’ll upgrade it and customize to pneumatic control of a...

Thx. Great feedback. I’m going the speed control and pedal route.

What is the downside of using the wired or wireless remotes that can be purchased at HF for the Badlands winches? There’s got to be a reason since I don’t see anyone using them rather, they seem to install control systems like you. Nice work by the way.

ESAB Rogue 180iPro is a great set up. Dual voltage, stick and TIG DC only. Lift TIG is just fine but scratch TIG. Is worth avoiding. The pedal control is worth the extra investment and it really makes that unit come alive. Multiple YouTube’s on. 18 pounds and really powerful. It would stay under...

SWAG Company has a setup like a box brake that is retrofitted into an HF 20-ton hydraulic press. YouTube has vids on guys that have modified that even more. Is that what you’re talking about?

A minimal set (good brand so it’s expandable) of 18-20volt power tools. Dril, Driver, Sander maybe but definitely a Reciprocating Saw. Super handy for demolition or builds and the aggressive blades are good for yard bush/small tree pruning.

Yep. Devcon or JB Weld. Great choice.

Lead is a righteous fix as long as it’s the real solution. That is, once leaded, it cannot be welded or even brazed. The lead has gotten into the molecules and it won’t adhere steel or bronze. And. The acid used in flux must be neutralized before primer or paint or that spot’s finish coat will...

Unless there has been an unnatural advancement, oxygen and acetylene provide the hottest gases man can produce.

A common concern of pro’s using HVLP is that it’s difficult to lay on a glassy finish. Often it’s sent on to the polishers so it’s not too much of a problem. But, the polisher in your case may be you. More work or cash to send it out.

Oh yes, try not to blow through mill scale with Flux Core 120v machines. Grind the steel areas clean. And if your wire is ‘stubbing,’ the wire speed is too fast for the heat setting. Tilt the gun back slightly and drag the electrode with 3/4 inch stick out. It’s a longer time interval for rhe...

I have a Hobart 140 (120v) that is dedicated to Flux Core .030. It works fine but best off of a 20A circuit, not 15a. Flux Core 120V is much more about welding technique and machine settings than anything else. Just don’t ask more out of it than it can give.