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Use a regular old compass to locate the metal studs. I don't think a GPS will work in that application.:beer:

Many years ago I was helping one of my brothers replace the (steering) idler arm on a ,51 Mercury. Couldn't get the swivel nut loose, it was about 1&1/8" or 1&1/4" hex. Had an SK breaker bar on it and it wouldn't budge. Put about a 4' snipe (cheater pipe) on it and pulled and pulled until...

Use ours all the time, it's right there when needed, no need to go get one out of a drawer. Bits, etc are on a bin shelf right next to it.

http://chamberlain.custhelp.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/393/~/liftmaster%C2%AE-model-480lm-and-480lmc-alternate-mounting-kit-instructions-and

Sounds like you all forgot about machine screws.

Check out the thrift (we used to call them second hand) stores for your "120 VAC analog clock".

Got pics? Don't know about Blackhawk, but the Armstrong one I had years ago had a plug about 1/2 way up the cylinder.

Lookas like a door stop to me.

Offhand, I would suspect that the (starting) capacitor has failed. What makes you think that the bearings have failed? They usually start to make noises before they give out completely. Have you removed the belt and tried running it like that? Have you tried turning the motor by hand, w.the belt...

Call.......... Billy

Looks like a chi-com import to me, I might be wrong.

Safety glasses!!

Looks good. What's the green button for? A reset for?

What is the line to line voltage? Before start, during start-up, during running and does it remain steady during running until it stops on pressure build up?

The motor tag says amps 21, so #10 wire and 30 amp breaker should be fine. For grins you might ask the seller what he ran it on.

SMART decision.

Whats the issue w/no pull string? You did say it was 75'. Never heard of a fish tape? There's a reason they make them 100' long

It's usually cheaper to buy a replacement motor, rather than having one rewound. To re-do one it's all hand work, strip the windings, might have to count the number of turns, then make up new coils, put them in, varnish, bake, etc, etc. New ones are all machine made.

Smile

Armstrong are good tools and have been around for a long time. Personally I wouldn't buy an electronic one. If you buy a click type remember to always back the tension off after use as leaving them tensioned up is what affects the calibration. Don't know if this applies to the electronic ones...