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I was showing off my father-in-law’s handiwork, a boat he built from scratch. The outboard is a 1959 vintage, and the boat plans were from the same era. Here’s a picture I took after the show yesterday….., …….but it’s hard to capture the badassery of that mahogany without standing in the...

Had another commission for a pair of ball-end Snap-on body hammers. These were started using a BF611 for the shorty and a BF603 for the long version. S2 Tool steel was bored using a carbide cutter and the ends of the shank turned down for a press fit. ER312 rod is used to join everything...

I made these out of aluminum as I found a piece the right thickness in the scrap pile and more importantly, the metal die will tend to form the sharp creases with better detail. I normally use phenolic, which lacks in that category.

The radius at the bottom of either end of the wheel arches was a bit too tight for the dies in their standard form, I had to add a relief and neglected to get pictures.. To make room, the die was modified using a portaband to cut an X pattern, then a small screwdriver to bend the center...

Removing the tongue and reinstalling on the rear would greatly improve the weight distribution.

One of our supervisors at the day job has a Jeep that he without fail takes off the doors and top when weather gets nice outside. We took up a collection in anticipation to reward him with his duck, but this one had to be fully inflated after it was put in the passenger seat. He missed a...

It provides corrosion resistant hardware with the coating he's looking for. Options.

As others suggested, split down the middle of the sides, radius as needed, then weld the two halves together. Unfortunately the welding the pie slices together method will seldom remain how you started as the weld shrinks. I think you'll have better luck with size/shape stability using the...

McMaster offers black oxide coating on stainless hardware

Those were just aluminum plate, likely 6061. I also use phenolic and 4130 oil hardening tool steel, depending on the application.

I'm bartering for some paint mixes.... one quart for the Divco drivetrain, one quart for the 55 wagon license plate, 2 quarts blue for the 410 Mercury.

Next on the Metro list, as can be seen in the above pictures, is the need for patches for the wheel arches. We started with a paper pattern to capture the bead details and transferred that to the sheet metal using the trusty ice pick. Once cut out, the lower flange was hammered...

34 x 52. It’s not all that roomy, so I have to be particular about what I fill it with

Yes, I have a cabinet full. Some of the aluminum parts have been letter stamped, the phenolic marks with a sharpie. Shop truck is put away for winter. I do have the paint for the new engine but it's too cold for painting. Thanks!

We're still plugging along with the wiring on the wagon, a couple minor details to finish that part up. I was at a local body shop to order some paint matching the state of Maryland's 1955 license plates for the one we're restoring for the wagon. The shop owner asked if I could make some...

I've done a good dozen so far, and have a commissioned set (tall and short) that I'm doing right now.

If it leaks oil its got oil.... :ROFLMAO:

Happy New Year! I resemble that quarterly report. Nice fit up on the new tank!

You may need a new liner. I always look for pinch points. Where the stinger lead should come out straight from the machine (in most cases) yours looks to drop immediately from the front panel. Right in that area is likely to have wear in the liner, which will indeed affect machine performance.