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I'm on the short side 5'6" and I often use a 5 gal bucket.

Here's an option to set the posts once it's moved. I had an Amish crew do this so I'm guessing they had these custom made? It's all 1/4" thick and the J bolts were at least 5/8 or maybe 3/4". You could even do angle iron vertically around the posts and then set them in a concrete hole. I...

My lift paid for itself in 1 1/2 yrs just in labor. I'm halfway for all the building improvements to install the lift. Like you said travel time is such a killer. I should have bought one years ago.

I bought my C7000 from liftswholesale.com The closest warehouse to you is the Columbus, OH location which is where I picked mine up. For me it was around 2 hrs 1 way. After scheduling a pickup day they loaded directly onto my trailer and I strapped it down. I unloaded from the trailer, raised...

While I don't have a MaxJax everything I have read says those bolts should be torqued by hand 90 ft/lbs each (dependent upon the bolt manufacturer). Doesn't the install manual say anything about it? Snug-hand tight is not something I would ever do an a lift bolt. Never use an impact to...

You shouldn't be putting any additional stress on that corner because the header would be under it's own support. What you will need to confirm is how deep the knee wall is so when the jack/king stud goes into support the header the concrete under it is supported properly. If the previous...

OK-I understand the layout now. Adding the 2 doors by the small door does look to be the better option for packing cars in. You will be cutting the knee walls and needing some serious support beams i.e. laminated beams. Unless you can find an engineer to OK some old beams to support that wall...

First off- you $uck because that is a super cool building and 100% understand why you bought it! To keep costs down I would go with your 1st option of smaller stairs. Your pictures are good but I don't think I still get the entire layout. I can tell you moving doors in an old timber barn will...

I can't speak to the lifts, yes, I think we're hi-jacking this thread for that discussion so please start one for that. For the rebar-IF it's already down then I would contact bendpak or whichever mfg you decide and confirm with them. They may say it doesn't matter or they may say it needs the...

Stefan-please read the bendpak concrete requirements link above. On a new pour it is not required and there are several good points made in this entire post. Adding a deeper section does not give you 'better' anchoring. Adding rebar/mesh along with stress cuts is the correct way to reinforce...

I can add this-I spoke with my lift mfg and for mine they advised 4" thick. They did not specify anything else. Nothing about how far from cracks, psi, rebar, mesh etc. I was not comfortable with my floor due to numerous joints, age, spalling and unknown thickness. I did some research and...

Ahhhh-now I see! I thought it was a breakdown of the post base dimensions. IF you're a good welder I would weld it and not worry about the button hole weld on the holes of the base plate. I presume the post base is thinner metal vs the 1/4" plate? If you're not a good welder of different...

The post bases are already welded to the plate. They did a nice job of welding if you can't tell the weld is there.

Lag bolts for the base to wood post, I would predrill the holes to the shank size of the lag. I would lag each hole the base has. For base to floor I presume you have concrete? These in the correct diameter...

Since you have a new concrete floor you will not need to do the 12" thick section. You do need to confirm location of wire mesh or rebar was done mainly for drilling holes. 12" is for concrete that is too thin, not enough psi or a retro-fit. Mine was a retro-fit. Follow the Bendpak...

It never fails, every tool I take out to the project whether driveway or the barn isn't the right one but I have learned to take a tool bag so that when I'm done making 30 trips back to main garage w/toolbox for the right tool I toss them all in the bag so I'm not making another 30 trips...

A sticky is a permanent thread at the top of the Electrical and Lighting forum. In italics and not bold like the rest of the posts. Do you have a Harbor Freight (HF) nearby vs driving to another city? I haven't checked Lowes or Home Depot lately. My last check at HD it was close to $40+ for...

I don't think 60-70,000 lumens is wrong. I have 75,000 (15/shop lights) in my 24X27 but I have a vaulted ceiling vs your 8ft 1st floor. I can tell you which LED lights NOT to get. Anything from Rural King/worksaver brand. I have completely replaced all of mine in less than 1 1/2- 2 yrs. The...

I don't have a real long history i.e. 3 yrs or more but so far I've been happy with the HF Braun LED lights. Been doing good at 1 1/2 yrs. If you catch them on sale $16-18 is a pretty good price. Everyday price is $23. I can tell you NOT to get Rural King worksaver LED lights. I think the...

It looks like you have the lightest insulation door around 6.3? Next options are 9, 12.9 and then 18.4. My small garage has the 6.3 if you're trying to heat you will need the foam insulation kit as 6.3 is really not much but way better than plain steel/no insulation. My large garage has the 9...