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It hasn't tripped but I was just looking to maximize my systems potential, especially since I have filled all the slots on my subpanel.

Not great pictures, I know. Copper. THHN is printed on it. The sheathing says NM-B.

I have a detached garage with a subpanel. I have 100amp service to my house with a 40amp breaker and 8-3 wire to the subpanel. The run is approximately 65ft. As I am adding additional circuits to the garage, I'm considering replacing the 40 amp breaker with a 50amp. Is this feasible...

Which lift?? As for cleaning, I'm working on it! Garage sale coming soon.

So last year I had a garage built. I had incorporated some design details that I had hoped would allow a car lift. Fast forward to today and I'm ready to buy said lift. I haven't decided on which lift yet. Originally was planning and a regular 2-post asymmetric lift but now that my garage is...

Well we had some 40-50mph winds this past week and no signs of lifting. I think the roofing cement is holding well. I won't be nailing the bottom for that reason.

Here is the almost finished project. I have moved it it to a slightly angled position. I haven't connected all the b-vent yet. I need to put the firestop in. Is the firestop supposed to be between the drywall and the framing or do I put the drywall up first and then the firestop?

Here is the almost finished project. My question now is what caulk should I use on the storm collar? The same red high-temp RTV I used on the draft hood connector or just regular clear silicone?

I used roof cement under the shingles. Too late now I guess. As for the hole, I cut a 6-6.5 inch hole. My vent is 4in and the furnace instructions said 1 inch to combustibles.

Thanks for the reply! So no nails through the flashing flange? Only mastic under the flange and under the shingles above the lashing?

Just checking to see if I'm doing this right. Where should I put the sealant? Should I nail on the exposed part of the flashing and cover the heads with sealant? Should I tuck under the last layer of shingles? I'm a total noob at this.

It's going okay. Sorry I haven't updated or added new pictures. I've decided that I'm sticking with the heater I have. It was a great price and I already own it so... there is that. So far I have turned the unit to angle towards the center of the garage door. I have a draft hood...

24x30 720 sq/ft

Man you guys spend some serious coin on fans. I don't have nearly the needs of most of you, only 720sq/ft. I was wondering if this would meet my needs? On sale for about $42, but is it junk...

Maybe. How old is yours?

I could but I would need to use Cat III stainless steel piping... which is $$$. Also, my roof is regular shingles, not metal.

Thanks for the info. I'll just take my heater back to the store and continue to use my kerosene heater. This is all ending up being too much work.

I was hoping to leave the garage heated in the winter to maintain at least above freezing. I bought a ct50 thermostat that allows temp set down to 35. I was thinking around 40* at least. But I don't want condensation to damage anything either. I have a ceiling fan going in as well. Its too...

Would the disadvantage be short-cycling? Where is your location? I also should have added that I will have R13 walls and r19 ceiling. Also have a r6 16ft garage door. -Andy

My manual (in the box with my heater) does not specify a minimum horizontal run. However, if I download the PDF from Beacon Morris, its specifically states 2ft minimum (which seems like a lot). I've been in contact with their Tech agent and he stated I can use a 90* within the 2ft if...