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I just made that mistake, running SER underground in conduit. I pulled it out from underground but left the run in the house. I put a 8x8 junction box in place of the LB and made my splice to four correct USE wires. Those USE wires run in conduit until they terminate in the garage sub panel. One...

i am about ready to fire up the new in floor heat system in the new garage. I am contemplating on connecting the circulation pump to the same 20 amp circuit as the four garage door openers and two ceiling fans. Do you think this would be OK? Do you think the pump should be on its own dedicated...

Thanks. I will probably ask you for help if i need it. The springs should be here soon.

I don't know how I can describe it any better than I already did. I will be getting push springs.

i have the tight radius curve. This pic is with the opener disengaged and i pushed it all the way open which is needed to get the camper in/out. I misspoke about the door movement as either i adjusted it in the past or the springs are broke in, but the door stays in place wherever I put it...

You could disconnect them and see what doesn't work any more.

I think I would need the 27" pusher spring. My door is 12' high and 10' wide. As shown in my original picture, I need to stop the door at the top so almost a full panel is still in the opening. Doing this ensures it will go down every time with out creating slack in the cable and tripping the...

Yes exactly.

Go penning, what would a pusher spring look like? ....maybe I will just g oo gle it. Yes, the tension sensor slacks and stops the opener. This is why I do not have the door go all the way up. Rusty

I put the opener on my 10 x12 door. But I cannot fully open the door as it seems the opener needs gravity do get the door going in the down direction. I need to disconnect the door to lift it the final foot and a half so I can get my camper through. The opener will lift it that far if I program...

Sorry for the poor, grainy picture. The iPad is really crappy for that feature. I did not want to go at the four foot level as I did not to deal with going around the windows or drops down the wall from a higher point.

Double boxes that accept 3/4" conduit with a single 20 amp receptacle. With the good cover, not the cheap thin ones. Located 2' off the floor because that is where the bookshelf board/stringer is behind the steel liner. Boxes and conduit clamps attached with hex head self taping screws through...

This is for a reference from possible search engines for those who are looking to change their appliance from three wires to four. If the pictures are gone, sorry, I must have moved them around in my photobucket. This is the three prong wire that will be removed from the appliance. This is...

If you are just planning on spending $$ on 1/2 pex about $350. 2" rigid foam, about $1000. Experts say you want the system pressurized when the cement gets poured, so figure on adding a manifold as well. This way you can have it all capped off also.

My cement guy would have done mine, but I did it myself. I think I set aside $2k for my 28x48 in floor heat system. My recomendation for a boiler..... http://www.electromn.com/ Avoid buying one from the big box stores.

It may look best to make one niche. But then you may want/need a header to support the stud you plan to cut. Rusty

What are the breakers that are specifically designed for fluorescent bulbs? Would thess be switch duty (SWD) breakers? Or something different?

Good to know. Sorry, I meant to write 32 watt bulbs. I chuckled at the China American Fluorescent tag.

OK. Thanks. I ran 12 gauge wire already.

I am configuring lighting for the shop. I have 22 hanging florescent fixtures. The plug in type. They read 120 volt. Each has two 30 watt T8 bulbs. I thought I would be fine with one 120 volt 20 amp breaker, 12 gauge wire and 20 amp reciprocals across the 14' ceiling. 20 amps x 120 volts x 80%...