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For those wondering, it's going into a Fiat 600 I'm restoring and building into a replica factory Fiat Abarth 850TC race car from circa 1963. Original 633 cc engine made 22 HP. My performance engine will have about 90 HP. The engine is from a later Fiat 850 (same external dimensions) of 903...

The solution isn't going to be as easy as I thought, pffft... I went to a couple of machine shops this morning. Both said they don't have lathes and just do regular engine rebuild work. They both said try a transmission shop so I tried two nearby. First said nope, can't help. Second said...

It seems like the thing to know about these needle bearings is that the bore size can shrink after installation and you have to measure what you've got. I was looking on the INA and SKF for a fixed number required for the shaft dia. but now I see it doesn't work that way. When I push the shaft...

I'm a little confused on what I've got and what the original engine builder intended. Was the builder simply not thinking? I had a lot of performance things done to the engine like stroker crank, forged rods & pistons, larger valves, titanium valve spring retainers, ported head, balancing...

Thanks for the comments. The clutch disc slides just fine on the splines so no issue there. I am wondering if why the 12.00 mm dia. shaft only goes in part way is because the rollers get tilted slightly and are binding against the shaft?? The shaft seems to vary in dia. slightly from end to...

I had a custom performance engine for a vintage car built about about 10 years ago by a guy who ran a shop in the US and later sold the business which is now in Europe so I can't ask the original builder or shop anything. A needle bearing was installed in the end of the crankshaft for the...

That's what I was worried about. Of course they do that on purpose so you have to buy new mats... :wtf: At least it's not silicone or teflon! But 3M has their weatherstrip adhesive for bonding weatherstrips to doors for seals that are made from EPDM. So their adhesive must work well enough...

Have some original "rubber" floor mats from a '58 car I'm restoring. They're all in excellent condition except for a small tear in one piece and a small-ish area in the driver's footwell. I'd like to patch these with some other leftover rubber from a parts car of the same vintage. Replacing a...

We had our metal roof installed by a large local roofing company specializing in metal roofing on residential and commercial buildings. Our floor area under the house and attached workshop & garage is around 4,000 - 5,000 sq. ft so lots of metal up there. The roof structure is rafters with 2x4...

Taking a course and buying your own MIG setup is a good idea, but if you've only got those projects to do and not sure if you'll do much MIG welding from now on, maybe you'd be better off to find someone to do the welding for you, esp. the 5/16" stainless. The thickest I've welded with my...

^^^ Many good ideas to check out. A reasonable quality latex eggshell paint *should* clean up okay. I'd start with soap and water before using a cleaning product. Not sure what type of dust you have? I spent a career in building construction as an engineer on all sorts of building types...

I love my auto-darkening Servore googles. I use the fire-resistant cotton hood when welding for extended period otherwise I just use a cap. The goggles are really light and very comfortable. I'm near-sighted and the googles allow me to get closer to the work for a clearer view. I do mig and...

Agree. I will be on the shady side of the house in late afternoon. I have a frame setup I've used for media blasting in the driveway and could use some sheet plastic on it. One thing I am concerned about is isocyanate and want plenty of ventilation since I don't have a self-contained...

All excellent info., thanks. I'll do the interior and exterior separately. It's not like the paint doesn't dry quickly anyway. Starting on the center of the roof makes sense so the hose stays away from the surface.

Will be painting a car in our driveway next month. The body is in primer (high-build over epoxy) and need to do a little touch up here and there where I sanded through to bare metal. I'll be using Nason 2K single stage urethane paint and an Astro Pneumatic HVLP gun with 1.3 mm nozzle. The car...

Thanks for the suggestions so far. I have to paint this thing to get rid of the awful color anyway so I was thinking of some kind of filler that is sand-able and paint-able. The idea of plugs is an interesting thought.

Just got a "new" 2012 GM Sierra truck. Came without a cap/canopy and we really need one. They're so flippin' expensive new these days. Found a nice Leer canopy at way too good a price to refuse. Great shape except a PO before the one we bought it from had drilled some 3/8" or so dia. holes...

Finding the fasteners you need can be a chore sometimes. Once in a while I need what seems like a common length, size or type of fastener and nobody in town will have it, pffft... :mad: HD has some generic stuff that is okay sometimes. I've used a few online places when I'm in need of a...

I spoke to the chemist in Proform's lab today. He's going to take some of the rubber-based seam sealer and experiment with it by putting some of the undercoating over it. I may be looking at scraping it out and redoing it. Won't be a fun job if I have to. :mad: It turns out the date code on...

Seam sealer was on for over a week, and same for the undercoating now. This morning I looked at the tubes and realized that one is rubberized and one is urethane. The tubes look the same... I was low on the urethane that I got at a body supplier shop and bought another tube at a retail auto...