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I can confirm that. I have bought several Gearwrench ratchets and socket sets in the last year. They have all been Taiwan. The ratcheting combination wrenches are the only thing that I am aware of that are Chinese. Proto sockets on Zoro are another good deal as someone previously mentioned.

I don't like packaged "kits" that you can buy. Most of them have both SAE and metric making half the sockets doing nothing but adding weight and taking up space for 99% of the drivers out there. I buy one of those $20 Husky tool bags and put in an assortment of metric sockets, a couple ratchet...

They are made in Hangzhou Kansas of course.

I linked the best price I could find with a quick search, not taking into account the sellers pictures or other listing details. Just about every online seller of PI torque wrenches uses the same generic photos. Even on Precision Instruments own website, they have just a generic photo of a dial...

What is different other than the dial color? The PI dial goes from 0-150 in/lbs just like the SnapOn. The description says the range is 30-150 because they are only calibrated to be accurate from 20%-100% of rated torque. 20% of 150 in/lbs. is 30 in/lbs. The "M" in the model number indicates...

Precision Instruments makes those dial torque wrenches for SnapOn. You can get the Precision Instruments version with a light that illuminates when the torque is reached so you don't have to see the dial. Any Precision Instrument dial torque wrench with a model number that ends in "L" has an...

Cotter Pin puller. I don't use it to pull cotter pins much, but I always seem to find it useful for prying other things.

Same reason I decided not to go with GP.

My first real set ratchets and wrenches were USA Craftsman RP from the mid 90's. I carried them with me in the trunk of my car through college. I still have them and will always keep them for sentimental reasons, but I don't really use them much anymore. I much prefer my SnapOn and Gearwrench...

Take a look at the Wrightgrip combination wrenches. USA Made. I love mine. Cheaper than SnapOn.

Most of the tool kits out there have a bunch of tools you won't likely use. I have no need for SAE tools in my trunk tool bag. I don't want the extra weight or space being used on them. I'm not worried about helping a stranger get his classic car running. I select tools that I will likely need...

Only if you are doing it with someone else's tools. Years ago my ex-brother in-law came over to my place to change the clutch in my sisters car. He needed my help and my tools. I have a whole plethora of tools... ratchets of all sizes, breaker bars, sockets, etc... With all of those tools at...

Thanks for the link. I didn't think to look for the metric equivalent of 3.622" when I was looking for sleeves. :lol_hitti

My bore size is 3.622". I don't see any tapered compressor that fits that size.

I just had a thread for which type of piston ring expander people prefer. Everyone seemed to prefer using their fingers. Now I am wondering which type of piston ring compressor people prefer using. Do you prefer the top wrinkle band type or the bottom pictured band type?

Thumbs it is. Thanks guys.

I'm using Wera Kraftform. They fit JIS screws perfectly.

Do you prefer the simple type like to top picture or the ones that support the sides like the bottom picture? I have never used a piston ring expander before and might be rebuilding an engine this winter.

I have a few Snap On sockets and ratchets. I don't think I will be buying much Snap On in the future. The issue with some drivers not warrantying their tools is a big issue. If only the original owner can warranty tools, the value of the used tools drops significantly. Who would want to buy an...

...and just to clearify, I am talking about the gasket mating surfaces. I should have mentioned that in the OP.