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Good news: surface is coming back with metal polish Bad news: it looks like etching. Anyway, no real harm done. Will metal polish leave abrasive residue on the ways?

I've already used rust remover as there was a small patch of rust where the tailstock was sitting. All that's left now is staining. I could certainly try that.

Pic here. The product is called Restore Degreaser from Shield Technology (found in the UK). They also have a product similar to Metal Rescue called Restore Rust Remover. The lathe came from a school and is practically brand new, but it was all underneath a 23 years old dried up 'transit'...

Etching stains on lathe bed from cleaning agent/degreaser - is it permanent? I bought a lathe with toffee-like gunk all over the bed and was very hard to come off, even with cleaning agent (something similar to Simple Green. I must have been taking my time with it and little matte spots started...

Good points everybody. I like the suggestion of buying 2, in which case it would be the Mega and a cheap 30t bottle jack press for the odd job. But even the cheap ones are not that cheap when you factor in shipping, and I have other things on the wish list too. I will crunch the numbers some...

Time to pony up for my very own hydraulic press. After much consideration it all came down on these 2 models: http://www.mega.es/catalogo_automocion/catalogo_automocion_detalle.php?sIdioma=en&nIdCategoria=8...

If anybody is looking for a shop press, SGS engineering has a sale on with free shipping on mainland UK. I've been told the quality of these presses is second to none within their price bracket. And a 10 year warranty to boot :shocking: I particularly fancy the 20 ton one...

Funny you should say that, I've order a small component from Conrad UK and it took over 3 weeks to get it. Never again.

If this is my best bet, I don't like my chances. I'm in the UK, such outfits are far and few between. This is how the motor coupling looks like, you can see the fins on it: The guy I bought it from scrapped the motor along with the coupling. Very bad idea!

I've just acquired a Hydrovane 5 compressor air end and after some good head scratching I realize I'm missing the coupling from the motor side. The way I understand it is the pump has a 20mm alloy coupling, the motor 24mm alloy coupling and in between sits the rubber spider. Well, I'm missing...

Sound advice, I couldn't have said it better myself. I would try to build a top tier brand core (socket set, spanner set, screwdriver set etc. - your bread and butter for most jobs) and then consolidate with lesser brands, the odd second hand, ebay bargains, online promotions etc. Teng, Sealey...

Soak them in wb40 and then invest in an Irwin bolt grip remover set. It took off exhaust nuts that were literally defaced by rust. Couldn't quite believe it.

Iroda solderpro 120/150/180 etc. As good as Portasol. Snap on used to sell the Solderpro 180 under the Blue Point brand.

The Stahlwille ratchet is now £19.65 posted. Ordered one myself. Cracking deal on the Knipex cutter too. Keep 'em coming boys :beer:

I had the 'everything snap on' sickness for a while, thank god I'm over it now. My blue point multimeter also failed within a few years of occasional use. Crappy at best. I know we're talking about a different meter but nevertheless! Now I'm very selective about buying snap on, only pay the...

OP already said it the coworker was well aware of not pushing it over the limit so you're making a moot point. Also I already said you're wearing down your more delicate and more expensive tool by using it as a breaker bar, so another moot point. The torque wrench is a dumb tool. It can't tell...

Ok, let me make it clear for you. Using a torque wrench as a breaker bar does not throw off the calibration. Using it heavily every day will, but so will torqueing to spec every day.

It doesn't throw off the calibration. It's just that it has a much lower life span compared to a ratchet or a breaker bar, plus it's the more expensive tool. You just wear it down unnecessarily.

I keep an older IBM X31 dedicated for car work. Diagnostics and programming (DIS, Progman, INPA, Ediabas, NCS Expert), part diagrams with prices, electrical diagrams, repair instructions etc. Couldn't live without it.

They are even more expensive over here. An 18V hammer drill with two 3.3ah batteries and a charger will cost £390 (600$) at the dealer. The sad part is they're very rare new on ebay uk and for that reason they're going for crazy prices. I've seen them sold close to £300. I've also seen used...