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Sounds good. I have seen a few 1/2hp models for sale near me. Thank you!

This thread is awesome. I don’t have a bench grinder in my shop. Now I am thinking I just have to have a 1HP on the HD base.

Bport- just watched your video and really enjoyed it! I should do a more in depth look at the Sidney like you did with yours. Very informative on a machine that doesn’t have a lot of info floating around, and your machine looks GREAT. You sure are correct not to fall in love with a worn out...

If you have been trying a while with the drill bit heating up, the stainless may have hardened. Try center punching it and use some cutting oil. If you can, shift your hole location over a bit to start fresh. You can’t let the drill bit spin and spin while heating up on stainless. Apply a...

Patten, thanks for sharing that. I have never seen that before. The magic of tapers is that you don’t also need a mechanical fastener, so I wonder if they put that there to account for loose tolerances or users that don’t clean the taper first. I’d clean and polish the taper and try the new...

Nice work! That new chuck is just fine, but an old USA made Jacobs version may be even better off of ebay used. No idea what that set screw is unless the spindle is hollow and it is to press out the taper in the chuck from above.

Yep that’s a long drive to Liberty. You may already know this, but when you install your new J33 chuck make sure to clean both the male and female tapers really well with acetone. After initially fitting it into the taper, hit the chuck hard with a bronze/ copper/ lead non-marring hammer to...

Pioneer, I just noticed that you are in Kansas City. If you can’t get anything to work, PM me and I’ll come over with some tools and remove that old chuck for you.

I can’t tell if that groove is deep enough to catch the inside edge of the wedges. If not, a spacer like a piece of steel, wood, or aluminum could be placed above the wedges to apply downward pressure. Once the wedges are tight, a good smack with a hammer usually pops the taper loose. If...

Here are the results after 4 hours. The hammers are ready for finishing and new handles. The grease on the car parts is 90% gone, and rust is 100% gone. Most of the paint was removed. The exhaust manifold casting is clean inside and out. The brake drum is clean and ready for paint. This...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0067BSG9S/?tag=atomicindus08-20 Use your Jacobs wedges to pop it out. Squeeze or hit the wedges from opposing directions.

Here’s a video that I just uploaded with more detail on the big Sidney.

Agreed! Matt, that looks awesome.

Here is one of the hammers after about an hour in the mixer tumbler. It needs some more time, but this looks promising.

Hey, I thought I would share this experiment for cleaning rust, paint, and grease off of old parts and sturdy tools like hammers. I use a lot of the common rust removal methods. Wire wheel, cup brushes, media blasting, Evaporust, needle scaler, and sanding. With several large projects that...

Hey Joe, I don’t want to hijack your thread with the cement mixer idea. I’ll move this experiment over to a new thread. I’m curious to see some of the other ideas about cleaning after evaporust.

I have done that before with a yellow tip, around 3 or 4 gallons per minute. It dried out fast on a warm summer day. I’d keep the pressure washer outside while you do it because of the exhaust. It sounds like a good idea this year because we have a lot of salt and mud on the floor from this...

Hammer after about an hour tumbling.

Let’s experiment a bit. I tossed some old hammers, rusted and grease caked gears, a brake drum, and a manifold in with some purple power, dawn, sand, gravel, and water. I will check back later this week.

Coogar, a hammer impact has an internal eccentric cam that locks either left or right. To loosen a mechanical fastener, you rotate the cam to turn upon impact in the desired direction. When you hit the end of the tool, the downward pressure engages the fastener and turns at the same time.