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Excavation has finally started. I did a rough layout of the garage and driveway for the excavators. The stakes are the corners or the building. The concrete contractor will layout the exact location relative to my house. They first tackled this 36” diameter oak stump out. It’s basically...

I haven’t been buying much because I’m cleaning out my garage to turn it into a bedroom. But I’m also building a new 36x24 garage. So I’ve been trying to bring everything into my basement and a storage container. Then the other day, I hop on Facebook for the first time and the first listing was...

I guess inside the foundation would make more sense for a garage. I don’t want to deal with having to cover up insulation on the outside either.

Starting to dig for my foundation in the next few weeks. Detached 36x24. Footings 42” deep to the frost line. I don’t plan to continuously heat the garage in the winter. I’ll probably only heat it with either a mini split electric heat pump, or natural gas if i get gas pulled to my property from...

New 35x24 Garage Build - Veeps' Garage Edit: Changed shop size to 35'x24' because of site conditions. So I'm starting a new thread as I plan to hopefully break ground on my 36x24 shop before December. It's going to have a full foundation down 42" to the frost line. 16"x8" footings. 8" wide...

So I’ve decided to do full foundation. I have 2 more quotes coming in but I’m at about $15000 which also includes site work for a new 120ft driveway, concrete walkway and patio removal, and 2 new 10ft foundation walls/footings for our addition. Also includes the garage floor.

The thing is that the concrete is being poured at the same time as the concrete for the house addition. And this is happening in November or December depending on permits. I’m hoping after the election the prices soften. I started following lumber futures prices snd November’s price is much...

Those are good tips. I will have to coordinate between the excavator and concrete contractor as far as the base under the slab. I’ve seen videos of people pouring slabs and pulling up the wire as they pour. Never actually seen a large slab pour in person though.

Very awesome!

Guys I still have these parts and I’m willing to sell all 4 pieces for for $10 total + shipping for anyone who might need them. Total weight is probably 10lbs once packaged. They are from a 1/3hp 397.19391 They need to be repainted.

Thanks. Yes I do not want fiber reinforced. I will use welded wire mesh. I’m also thinking of going with 6” of concrete for the slab.

Sorry but I have not heard of a ledge on the frost wall for a slab to rest on. I don’t see how that would help stop cracking if the fill under the interior portion of the slab settled. I would think the middle would just settle and you would have a cracked and crooked slab. I’m pretty sure the...

I can do what I want with trusses. I’m not worried about extra labor because that’s all on myself and friends or family that are willing to help. From the quote of $4000+ I got for attic and scissor trusses, there isn’t much cost savings. I’m waiting for the engineer to draw up what would work...

Thanks for that info. Yeah maybe he will just drag in the keyway and I can or I’ll ask him to throw some rebar dowels in. Do you think 2ft dowels are fine in a 10” thick footing? I’ll ask the excavator to try and backfill evenly inside and out.

Ok I’m getting really close. I think I have found my concrete contractor and I’m going to go with a 36’x24’ stick frame garage. Local code calls for footings 42” to the frost line. Local code doesn’t require rebar in the footings or vertical rebar connecting the foundation wall to the footing...

For my town, I don’t need engineer specified plans for a detached accessory structure such as a garage or a shed. It just has to follow building code. The building dept is giving the foundation specs as far as a footing 42” deep to the frost line, etc.

I wouldn’t mind having to get multiple lvls up to the ridge. In my house I had to get two 1.75”x14”x24’ lvls thru a hole in the gable to get above my ceiling joists to take out a load bearing wall. It wasn’t horrible.

The other dimension is 36ft. I going to stop by the truss company the week or next week to get some opinions. It’s almost impossible to reach the guy by phone or email. That truss girder idea sounds good if they can make it work for me and it’s cost effective. I do have a snow load. I’m in...

I’m trying to avoid poles. The engineer from the lumber company said he will try to design it with 24ft lvls at 12ft splitting the building in 3. And a supporting post from one lvl to a structural ridge. I will see what he comes up with and if it will work with a pole building or just a stick...

24ft