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That's part of the problem. The entire structure is covered in plywood inside, including the rafters. I can't really see everything that's going on.

Added some pictures above. The sag is pretty obvious. The weather prevented me from doing any real work. I did realign the garage door opener tracks to allow the garage door to function. It was jumping the track. I have to move the track inward about 2" on one side to fix the problem...

Sounds a lot like like my issue. I assume the addition of the large door is causing most of this. I'm a little concerned about removing the plywood on the walls. It might be what's holding the whole thing together. :D

Ok - we do get a very heavy snow load here. We had a 7ft storm in Dec 2022.

Might have been me. I replied to an item and might have changed the message midstream.

I don't know at this point. I need to get into the garage attic. There is a floor up there. I haven't been up there in a few years. I don't remember seeing either, but I assume there are collar ties.

That's my assumption as well. I think the door was added without much thought to that. My guess is that there were probably 2 smaller door in place originally.

There's a standing metal roof. I'm pretty sure there's a layers of shingles under that.

Gable roof. The door is not on the gable end.

I believe the modifications were a DIY thing. The inside is covered with plywood, so I can't see everything yet. The prior owner moved the entire structure at some point. The old garage foundation is still visible. This is the same guy who rewired the entire first floor of my house using boat...

Hi, I'm posting this without pictures right now. I need to take some good measurements and daytime pictures this weekend. I'll add those as I get them. My problem is with a 40s-50s 2 car garage. The garage is 25'x25'. The inside ceiling height is ~7 ft. It sits on a 4" slab. The slab is not...

Rust Bullet doesn't need as much prep as epoxy. I just pressure washed and power sanded my 1200 sq ft floor. It's held up very well. I had to do mine in 2 phases because I had a lot of stuff in storage. I don't recommend that approach.

I'd go with fiber. It's not that much more than CAT6. You can buy pre-terminated cables online. I ran 300' of outdoor rated cable in 1" conduit for less than $200 several years ago (The conduit $ was separate). It's worked flawlessly and I get faster internet in my barn than in my house. The...

I have some of the heavy duty gym mats in my barn. I bought them as seconds like 20 years ago. They had blemishes and had some scrapes and cuts, but work perfectly for my needs. They are indestructible. Keep checking websites for overstocks or seconds. I got them for about 1/3 of what the...

I had a similar issue. I tried like crazy to find the old wire underground, but I never found it. I lost track of how many holes I dug. I gave up and had someone do a new run of conduit from my house to the new building.

If it's too good to be true, it usually is too good to be true.

Spend some money on a good puller. I bought a cheap Chinese-made harness on ebay. I had a 200ft pull through 1" conduit with several 90s. It was a lot harder than I though it was going to be, It got stuck 90% of the way and the puller just fell apart. I had to make my own from the parts I...

I agree 100% with the fiber recommendation. It's cheap, easy to install, and future proof. I'd spend a little more to get outdoor rated fiber.

This is true - be careful. If you hit the root system when they're digging it might impact the tree. I killed one of my maple trees when they dug a trench for water about 15 ft from the tree. It took about 2 years before it died.

For a small shed like that, I'd look into closed cell spray foam. That will seal up the building and pretty much block drafts and heat loss. Assuming electric is your only option, a baseboard heater should be able to keep it pretty warm after that. I agree with one of the above posters. Spend...