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Fair enough. I see what you're saying. Since we are both wasting energy on a bizarre thread discussing my use of the word "chaos" I will only add that I don't think the OP did anybody any favors when he posted this thread, which I think you and I both agree, is a complete fabrication. So no...

I guess I had the last page or so in mind. Beginning at post 60 or so...this thread seemed to get a bit chaotic IMO. Post #70 poorUB commented the thread is "going off the rails." After that I saw several dudes arguing, a mention of "safety Nazis", accusations of personal insults, Chinese...

I'm with you. An absurd thread by new member "RandomInternetUser." I think we allowed a troll in the house who is just sitting back and laughing at the chaos he caused.

It might be helpful to know more about the building and where the OP is located? If it's a smaller building with 10' ceilings (which it looks like it is) and in a wooded region with lots of hills and valleys....the wind load is probably going to be minimal. I do agree with everything written...

I did rough sawn 1x10 ship-lap up to 8'. Then painted OSB on top of that to 12'. The OSB doesn't look too much like **** when it's 8' off the ground. The 1x10 offers more of a rustic look that not everybody will like. But if you like it, and if you have access to a local mom and pop sawmill...

I'd personally tear it all off and start with a clean slate. Clean up some of that wiring and run new wires for outlets, compressor, welder, etc. You may find that it's uninsulated...this will give you a chance to insulate it properly and figure out how to heat it. Opening up those walls is...

Replace it with a composite or plastic shim.

- Stack firewood - Winterize camper - Buy shear pins for the 7' 3 pt. hitch snowblower - Firewood - Close pool - Inspect chimneys....every 5th year - Have septic tank pumped...every 3rd year - Firewood - Run non-ethanol treated gas through all summertime equipment (mowers, tiller, weed whacker...

I'd frame in your walls if you plan to hang heavy items or cabinets down the road. I would then get your wire roughed in by using the 1x's...very easy. Then insulation and wall covering. That's the way I did it. I used factory seconds 2" Polyiso 4x8 sheets cut to fit in between my 2x4 studs...

I'm sure you already know this, but something is clearly not right. You should not be getting smoke pouring out of that to the degree you describe. Sounds like you have a terrible draft for some reason. Have you checked for obstructions? Creosote build up? Is there a flue damper stuck...

You could use Perma-columns to keep the poles out of the ground.

Agreed. I did not add the 4x4 sections to increase thickness. I had a crack running through the slab after the pour that I couldn't not avoid when installing the lift.

Interesting. That never came up when I did this. My contractor (who is also a relative and loaned me all of his tools) didn't think I needed to key in my new pour since the slab is under 6" and not a commercial application. Also consulted Rotary when I did this and they never mentioned...

I can't imagine that the MaxJax requires more than 4 or 5" or concrete. If your existing floor was that thick you needlessly spent a lot of money and made things worse. If your pad wasn't that thick, your idea was fine...but the execution of it was poor. I would have somebody come in and...

I like Larry's suggestion also. If you're putting money into your garage to spruce it up you might as well go all in and be done with it.

Pretty happy with mine. I overthought everything before I built. I did, however, somehow manage to not include floor drains.

A question like this is going to be tough to get an answer you'll be 100% comfortable with. Nobody here on this forum is going to be standing under that lift. It's solely your property and your life...you assume 100% of the risk, or reward. Lift manufacturers will of course say "no." Here...

Some trees are certainly worth saving. Since you have many oaks on the property it might be best to just let this one go. It's going to eventually suffer insect damage. It's going to suffer rot. Caulk and flashing is aesthetically unappealing. Take it down and use the wood to heat your...

This is my 25x35 pole barn with a second story that I spent 4 years building. Did everything but pour the cement floor. I've got $35K total into it (to include a used 9K lb. Rotary lift)...mind you, that's before prices went North. If you can do the work yourself, you'll save a fortune.

Great news. Congrats.