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I'm headed there now, you want me to pick it up for you? :)

I forgot about foundation insulation. I mentioned wanting to heat my space and they City said no-go because the foundation wasn't originally insulated.

Is it in your permit to include heat in this building? The only time I thought they required insulation was if it was a heated space. At least that's the way it used to be. I wonder if they changed it? My shop was originally built un-insulated. I added full insulation when I expanded and...

If they're requiring it to be 24" that means they are direct burying the cable. If you run PVC conduit and pull the cable through that it only needs to be 18" deep. Better installation IMO and something to consider for the small price of some 2" PVC.

Welcome to the neighborhood. I had no issues with the City when I build my shop, hopefully you have similar luck. Looking good so far.

I thought that too, but isn't this shop in a residence (assuming it is), making this a residential bathroom? I bet this is one that will depend on your inspector and how they interpret the code.

Per NEC, if you have a ufer ground you don't need ground rods. You should check with your AHJ though, because different places enforce different rules on this.

The needs of the average GJ devotee can't be used as a measure for garage capability as provided for the average Joe. We are nowhere near average. For 95% of the population that one 15A circuit is more than enough. Your plan sounds fine. Are the walls insulated? You won't have any luck...

Google Ilsco power distribution block (PDB). They make a million different configurations and styles. These would work if you have a place to mount the block and would be very clean and make maintenance a breeze. Could be pricey, depending on the model you select.

Sure, but strip fixtures are considered to be permanent mounted, not like a box-mounted fixture you can easily take down. When I was in the trade I was always taught it's a code violation to cover with a strip fixture.

You can't just run wire through the 1/2" knockout and cover the junction box with the fixture. You have to provide access to the junction box and splices. By installing a permanent mounted fixture, which is what a strip fixture is, you've effectively covered the junction box. The 1/2"...

Just an FYI for when you install the lights. Everyone was hip on recommending using the boxes and suggesting that not using them was somehow not the right way to do it, but now that you are using them, you need to make sure you cut out a 4" hole in the back of the fixture to provide access to...

You don't need outlet boxes for lighting if you're using regular 4 ft strip lights. Just stub the romex out through the drywall and the splice is done inside the fixture. I leave a good 18 to 24 inches poking down so there's plenty of wire to reach where it needs to go inside the fixture. You...

Listen to Terry D, he's providing good advice. I would also use EMT and 4" square boxes. Handy boxes are single gang steel boxes and they are worthless and should only be used in very limited situations. EMT looks far more professional. If you're sold on running PVC, make sure you run a...

Condensation and humidity in Colorado? That makes no sense. People use humidifiers because it's so dry. I've never heard of anyone having this issue. There's something odd going on with water getting in from somewhere. I would definitely do some searching for the source. Snow on cars is a...

I wouldn't recommend rigid underground. You're saving some digging now so you can re-dig it again in 5 or 10 years when the metal is completely corroded. If you want to go crazy money-wise they make plastic coated rigid, or you could try taping it like the plumbers do, but I'm not sure how...

I'm not aware of an adapter to do what you want to do. I had the same issue when I wanted to mount my HD toggle switch for my compressor in the center of a 2 gang box. It was a metal box though, so I was able to modify a metal mud ring. Making a plate that connects the left and right screw...

I wouldn't waste my time running a bunch of separate ground wires, no reason to do that. Just make sure they're made up well in the j-box, or good advice above to install a ground bar in the j-box.

I've seen those extension boxes in the big-box stores around here. That is the ticket for adding on to an existing in-wall outlet. The tips above for stranded wire are good. I don't use stranded for the reasons you are running into. No need for it.

Another misconception you're falling victim to, you mention the concern of all this equipment running a the same time, but a 100A breaker doesn't trip the instant it sees 101A. There's a time/current curve that determines when it trips. If you exceed the rating by a few amps by a piece of...