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I had rain gutters put on mine when it went up and wouldn't be with out them

I had a 30x60 put up in 2007 $32,000 finished inside and floor myself and wiring. set up for street rod body shop. Got about 60-65,000 in it but well built building.

I had a concrete guy tell me the best way up here in mn to do floor heat under a floating slab was to dig out 2' down put in your poly and insulation on bottom and sides then refill and compact with gravel or sand then pour your floor.He said that way it would warm the 2' of gravel and work like...

I had a guy tell me he threw snow on his floor and it melted on the lines frist. Not saying I'd try it though.

try granger

I can see that. I didnt put insulation on the roof perlins I put 2x4s ever 24"on the bottom of the trusses then vapor barrier over that then my tin liner. Then I went up top and blew in r-50 fiberglass just like you would if you did a house. The bottoms of the eves. are vented to the outside and...

I'am just going by what my morton rep. told me on insulateing my building.

If your talking about the openings at the bottom of the tin no do not seal that off. You need the air to keep the inside of tin moisture free. If its cold out frost will build up on the inside of the tin then when the sun hits it it will melt and you need those openings for it to run out. If it...

Sorry I meant tin liner. Morton said the same thing but for the few $ more I put up 2x4's. Just felt safer and You can use the thinner steel with the 2x4's. I think it was easier to put up the vapor barrier with the 2x4's also.I blew in about 24" or better of fiberglass in mine. For area it was...

Remeasure your opening. On mine I have a 6x6 pole plus a 2x4 perlin on the outside wall which adds 1.5" to the 6x6.Then on the inside wall I have a 2x4 perlin which adds another 1.5" So I have 3" in 2x4 perlins plus a 6x6 pole between tin and osb on inside wall. So I have plenty off air space in...

Thats what I did to mine.30x60 morton building. Stripped the truss with 2x4's every 24" and put up vapor barrier then thin liner and blew r-50 fiberglass on ceiling. r-19 on walls vapor barrier and 1/2' osb.I'am in mn and I can heat it to 60 turn off heat and it's still above 32 after 24hr at...

I've got a 30x60 morton pole building. I used fiberglass batts in the wall with vapor barrier and blow in fiberglass in the ceiling. Morton said if I used cellulose in walls or ceiling there would be no warrantee on the trusses or tin on building. They've had the chemical in cellulose eat up the...

If you blow the walls only use fiberglass as the blow in material. on ceiling be sure it has a vapor barrier. Also only use fiberglass in ceiling. Reason/ any condesation will cause regular blow in to eat away the tin liner and any tin on trusses.

I would pull the osb and put up a sheet of dura rock just to be save. A lot cheaper than replacing a burnt buliding.

I had a 30x60 morton put up did floor with in floor heat and r-19 in walls r-50 celling and a 900 sq ft loft did most of the work myself and I'll have $65.000 in it before I'am done in mn.

Yes you need more height than that to make them work right. I had it in my last shop that had a 14' ceiling ht. and it worked great at 55 you where always warm. went with in floor heat in new shop.

I just used poly vapor barrier under the wall osb and under the tin on ceiling seems to be working just fine. Put r-40 in ceiling and r-19 in side walls.

I have a 30x60 morton building and I was told by morton to not put anything between the out side perlins and the tin as it needs that air space to keep moisture off the inside of tin.And to use nothing but fiberglass in both walls and ceiling.

I know of a guy that put a rad. from a mack truck with a fan behind it to heat his shop with outside wood boiler. Thing would cook you right out of the shop.

If you have a menards near you check there I know they have them I looked at some the other day.