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Looking at doing this to my 6 month old power troweled floor (4KPSI @ 25x42). I was hoping for some feedback on DIY polishing. My floor was power troweled to a burnished finish & looked fantastic- almost polished. Then- they spayed a curing sealer that ruined the looks - the sealer made it...

if your turning 2x4's on their sides, your limited to toe nailing from the studs to the cap and sole plate. Not great IMHO. I would use 2x6 for the vertical studs (for strength) and 2x3 cap and sole plates. Then I'd use 4" screws through the caps and soles into the 2x6 studs. Definitely not...

Look into garage portal framing. I just went thought this in MA. basically: http://media.iccsafe.org/news/icc-enews/2017v14n11/2015_irc_sigchanges_602.10.5.pdf http://www.jlconline.com/how-to/framing/portal-frame-holdown-rules-revised_o

^^^ and for more open wall space. Also- I'd spec the truss design to include usable attic space (never have enough space). And on that note- as everyone always says- go bigger if you can.

I went through this decision and the CMU foundation walls were MUCH cheaper than poured... so that's what i did. I did fully grout all the cavities. I'm generally happy with my choice and feel it is perfectly sufficient for my need BUT I believe a poured wall would better/stronger/longer...

Thanks for the update piper! I've got an older system 1 that I'm rebuilding and Mohawk has been awesome to deal with. R Burke- if his lift is only 9 years old- it's a 2 line. They stopped the 1 line (which is what I have) about 20 years ago.

Any update?

I'd call Mohawk and ask... they've always been very helpful and they have a great warranty. Please do post back with the results.

I did rockwool (Massachusetts)-no regrets. In my opinion- it's much more effective than regular density fiberglass (can't comment on high density). It's well worth the extra $$. I haven't done moisture barrier but I will. I haven't put up dry-way yet as I'm still installing infrastructure...

Thanks to both of you! I forgot I posted this. I found the weight.... screwed right where it's supposed be in it's holder- instead of in the tray where I normally leave it. Must of figured I didn't want it to fall out. My memory ain't what it was.... ***** to get old!

Some architects do- others don't. The reason I ask is that unless you need an engineers stamp for something (like a beam calc), some municipalities will only need a simple plan for an accessory structure so you might not even need an architect. When I started my garage, which was a fairly...

I have an older hunter road force balancer(9700) and during the new garage build, I seem to have lost the calibration weight. Anyone have one you could measure up so I can make a new one?

Do you need an architect or an engineer?

CASMURBAX: THANK YOU!!! Perfect! I looked and looked and I didn't find that page? I owe you a cold one! John

Just picked up and old mohawk system 1- single line lift (9K). Anyone ever find a manual that describes the hydraulic setup on these? I'l calling mohawk later but I know parts and support are limited for these older units.

My vote is the 9K rotary. Both good names but the extra 2k of capacity is worth the extra $ in my book... especially since it's arm capacity that matters.

I called - no showroom but nice guy. He's has good feedback with forward and direct- (challenger too but hasn't sold a challenger base plate in many years).

No- do they have a showroom?

thanks bustedwheel- well- I've been to GS and based on my 3 visits, I did change which lift I was going with based on seeing them. Once i made my decision, I just learned that the lift is discontinued by atlas (BP9000)... so now I need to see if there's another that fits my needs. I'm leaning...

I'll be looking to buy a 2 post lift (base plate) in the near future. I've been to Greg Smith in New Hampshire but I'd like to check out some others... especially BendPak. Are their any lift showrooms in the North East that I could visit to see the lifts in person?