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At my old place I would live and let live as long as they stayed out from underneath buildings. I'm not a fan of killing animals but those I trapped and killed. Groundhogs are very destructive. Deal with them seriously or pay someone to do so. Relocation isn't without issues. Experts say that...

You're right about convection vs conduction, but many people don't get it. 2" vs 4" below the slab seems to depend on whether you have radiant heat or not. 4"/R-20 for radiant in your area seems prudent (https://buildingscience.com/documents/insights/bsi-059-slab-happy). Pay attention to the...

Not really overcomplicated - try scaling up that generator to 60kva, and to use the same fuel as the planes. A turbine starts to looking pretty sensible. Then you just put an aircraft-style bleed air cooler on another cart and use a waste product to cool things down. Simple!

Stopping the water at point of entry is much harder than directing the water away in the first place. Water wants to flow. As Lakeroadster says, building a poly-covered grade underneath the deck will move the water away (assuming the deck area is the culprit). You'll have to give that new...

If you already have a closet set aside, consider wall mounting the network equipment and putting the NAS and other devices on a shelf or two. A nice patch bay and some effort organizing and dressing the cables would go a long way to making it look presentable.

A lot may depend on what you ultimately want to do. I like racks for audio but don't find them compelling for computer hardware. To get a reasonably clean network setup, I used a Leviton structured wiring box in the house we just built. It's still a work in progress and is doing the job, but I...

If your WiFi access point plugs into the hAP box, then you should be able to plug your new conduit-run cat 6 into the spare ports and be good to go. I'll echo Bruce's question: what do you want to do with this network? The answer affects the solution. For general internet use, everything...

Running cable will be simplest. Unless you're running lots of wire, conduit is overkill. I'd use a direct bury cat 5 or cat 6 from 1 to 2 and from 1 to 4. Buy a decent punch-down tool and terminate the ends of the direct bury cable using boxes and keystone jacks near your wired equipment. Buy...

Densifier + ghostshield 8505 or 8510. Doesn't look fancy but resists stains and, since each soaks in, never peels or needs fixing.

Sounds like a lot of solar heat gets built up in the roof area and the hot air just stays there? Not sure that any amount of insulation will be really effective against that. As DC73 says, those skylights are a primary source of solar gain, and the roof itself is a close second. How about...

My point isn't about selling, it's about storing for later. But I think we are in general agreement. In many climates, theis system will not be running for a good portion of the year, or even for much of the day (think about duty cycle) and thus not consuming solar power. With only 3 panels and...

FWIW, and I'm no expert, but the conduit that goes under my garage slab from the meter and disconnects to the panel is plastic, and is exposed at either end of the slab.

Interesting idea, and less tweaky than the solar thermal air-conditioning that's available for non-freezing climates. I didn't see any mention of sending excess power back to the grid? Right now in swing season my grid-tied solar is putting a lot of unused electricity onto the grid that will...

Scotty, can this product be tinted?

I don't have any experience working on my floor yet but used a densifiers followed by Ghostshield 8505. Surface looks raw but water and oil bead right up.

That's clever! I get mail-order safety glasses made to my prescription, using a single-vision lens but adjusting the prescription to be in-between readers and distance. This works out for me at arms length and closer. Single-vision prescription safety glasses are pretty cheap by mail and make...

I used cheap cans and Cree retrofit lamps. Good color, low electrical noise (RFI), and they have proven to be very reliable.

Thanks for the recommendation, Justin. The roller was key. Armorpoxy was kind enough to send quite a large sample of Sealed Air/Diversey/Butcher's Iron Stone, so I applied it per instructions in 2 coats and let dry overnight. Once again, a spoonful of wine, olive oil, and coffee were allowed to...

All I know about commercial floors is that I see people regularly applying some sort of a topcoat. The H&C product is probably fine for what it's used for in the polishing process, with the expectation that it's not going to be the only thing on the surface of the concrete. I'm OK with that...

The docs dont mention a waiting period, and it's been about 6-8 weeks between application and test.