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Sounds like fun, email on the way!

I talked with an old friend who makes and installs a lot of his own tile as floors. He swears by Future Floor Finish (now Pledge Multi Surface Finish), which is a mop-on acrylic. It's not a forever product - you're expected to strip it every 8 applications or so. We had no problems with it on a...

Thanks to you both. The polishers applied H&Cs Lithium Protective Finish for stain resistance - which the product data sheet claims it does. I guess I just don't buy that it'll be effective by itself.

Ok, lemme revise my question: course of action that doesn't require heavy rework on 1500 SF of newly-finished floor.

We're at the tail end of building a house with polished concrete floors. The floor finishers used Sherwin-William H&C lithium finish. The floors look good. This weekend I wet-vac'd the finished concrete with plain water, and noticed that the concrete absorbs water. This makes me wonder how the...

I've gotten good service from rx-safety.com

Daikin does offer their Altherma air-water heat pump in the US - we considered it until we got ballpark pricing. I second the photovoltaic solar panels. Looks like MO is net metering, so if you size it right you could effectively generate heat (electricity) all summer that you'll consume in...

Another HVAC thread turned me on to these, haven't tried them yet but intend to as my construction winds up: http://www.controlbyweb.com/x300/

IANAL, but you might want to invest an hour's worth of time with one. There may be very specific language and actions required to cover yourself here.

Nice work, and nice South Jersey buffing wheels, to boot.

I'd be taking that option and finding another builder...

Our old house was zoned upstairs and downstairs but had a similar problem. Upstairs t-stat was in the hallway. The wood stove downstairs would heat up the hallway and the upstairs zone would shut off and the bedrooms would freeze. I relocated the t-stat to the master BR. It's pretty easy to put...

Assume you're using zone valves? Does the radiant heat work?

I love tung oil but wouldn't use it on a working bench. It's pretty but not tough. Easy to sand and touch up, though. I second the poly, or poly over Masonite to cover the nice thing finish if you use it.

Thanks DW1 - that solves a problem similar to Flyin99's that I've been chewing on.

I had a similar situation with electric, and would recommend that you look at what it costs simply to have service. In my case the buried drop from the electric coop was pretty cheap but the basic service was about $10/mo or $120/yr. Didn't seem like much but after 10 years it would have been...

I've seen the results of a lift switch welding itself closed. You want a cutoff that's quick and easy - the lift could be crushing your car going or a person.

I moved an older 2 post once. The posts are heavy, slippery, and aekward. You really need help getting the posts over safely. IMO an engine crane would be too short for this. We used a tractor with a loader, which could reach high and provided some measure of safety if the 4-500lb post got away.

We just sold an old log cabin that's had exposed wood for many of its 200 years, 20 in our care. We didn't use a product on the wood, which was OK with the rough finish on that house. You'll definitely want a finish on the wood you're getting into. 2nd on gathering local knowledge.

Daikin sells their Altherma line of air-water heat pumps in the US. We looked at it for our build but it was very expensive as a secondary source for our passive solar floors.