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Oh. I gotcha. The tool is theoretical at this point. I'm just starting out with shop air in my own shop. I have an air hammer, die grinder, ratchet, impact, some paint guns, and a compressor. Don't even have a hose yet. At this moment, my switching cost is zero, so I'm trying to do the best I...

10 CFM is a round number ceiling for home gamer compressors. Mine doesn't actually make that much. The most directly applicable test for my own application would be flow/pressure drop across Stedlin w/ industrial vs high flow (i.e. Milton-V) Prevost at 90psi, and something between 5-10 CFM...

As I recall (from earlier today, but not in front of me now), he tested a Milton quick disconnect with high flow ****** against his coupler with industrial or his own ******. In a different video, he tested his vs. Prevost with both being industrial, and they performed the same. Transitive...

I've seen where he tested the female COUPLERS, but not the male *******. That seems like the choke point. How much more restrictive are the industrial ******* compared to the Euro/V *******?

Swivel testing: The high flow ball swivel won the race, but I wonder what the block swivels would have looked like with high flow fittings. The difference between the high flow and industrial swivel fittings was not huge at ~4%. Not sure how that translates to other things, but it's at the...

I really like the Stedlins (especially the swivel), but it seems like I would be missing an appreciable amount of airflow by doing so over high flow + Prevost. I can't tell if that amount of foregone flow actually matters at <10CFM though... Trying to acquire that data in order to make a decision.

Found this: For ballpark purposes, we're looking roughly at the two lines/grid intersections circled in pink. Industrial/M is 3/16", and high flow is closer to, but not quite 3/8", so these would be a bit optimistic, but representative for napkin math purposes. Ditto 100psi compared to what the...

I'm setting up my new air system, and trying to figure out couplers. The Euro/Milton-V flows more air than the standard industrial/M-type that are easy to find everywhere in a variety of materials. I've read up on the Stedlin quick connect, and really like the idea and feedback/reputation of...

I'm figuring out hose reels and connectors and such now. The local pickin's are slim. I'm itching to give it a good workout! Jeep is mid-regear in wait!

Air compressor arrived a few hours ago. Came with some Quincy branded/addressed documentation in case there was any doubt re: provenance. Did a 30 minute no-load break in, and about to go down and get ancillaries to start breaking in the other new tools! Excited to finally have shop air!

The run from the breaker to the barn is far enough to make me doubt that I'm getting a full 20A out there. I haven't measured it though. We had to completely replace the septic system a few years back, and the driveway got dug up. While it was torn apart, I replaced the wires running out there...

Digging around on the Chicago Pneumatic option. It looks like the RCP-224VP might have been discontinued and replaced with the RCP-226VP. I know that I don't know a ton about air compressors yet, but I can tell the pump casting is different from the RCP-224VP. The fan is shrouded rather than...

Brilliant! Thank you. This is exactly what I was looking for, and the sort of response that makes GJ what it is! I only have the one circuit, and it's a fairly long run from the building with the breaker that makes me a touch leery of pulling at the top of the circuit's capacity. If I get the...

That that question, and its resultant answer, are so frequently asked ad given is why I didn't ask that question. The question I asked could be restated more succinctly as: What's the best possible compressor for (the above) within the constraints of 120V@20A?

It's finally time to get shop air! I've been reading up on the subject for the past week or so, and looking into what is available, but I'm not really liking what I'm finding so much. I have 120V@20A only (kind of a major limitation), and need to be able to power the usual mechanics tools, but...

That particular part of the house was built ca. 1936 (three bay garage to "fit three Model As" according to an 88 year old man who lived here and was 6 when it was built), but the concrete floor there is clearly not original to the 1936 pouring. No idea when it was done or how long it's been...

This has been exactly the sort of information I've been trying to figure out. I've seen the PVC + foam recommendation multiple times (among a laundry list of others from arguably less reputable sources), and that seems fairly simple. I'll have to cut the pipe into halves to fit around the pipe...

I have been trying to fix a water potability issue with my well in a ~100 year old house and matching well in the Rocky Mountains. At some point between 1936 (the applicable addition) and now, someone ran a 1" copper pipe from the well up through the floor in the mechanical room in the basement...

Yup. Friendly Local Auto Parts Store. I’ve discovered the best store isn’t the same everywhere. The best here so far is an O’Reilly distribution center, though the tech talent is 0 for 1, at least for that single issue and shift. The bolt came out without any drama, but also without any...

Tying a bow on it for anyone who comes later with a similar question: I talked to the manufacturer of the fasteners this morning, and that lightness in torque at the end is NOT what it's supposed to do. That is a failure in progress. Do not proceed. Everyone's instincts are correct except the...