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Can you use a flag nut?

The ability to tighten the nut without holding the bolt is going to be a function of how rapidly the nut is accelerated with each impact and how much it slows down between each one. When the nut starts turning there's a brief moment where the nut's threads slip against the bolt's. Kind of like...

I'm a car guy but I'm not a buyer of detail products. Heck, this car has semi gloss paint applied with a roller! Actually, it's not completely true that I don't buy detail products. I keep a bottle of quick detail spray in the hauler for quick wipe downs but that's it. I wash them with...

Info on Hill, Clarke & Co What search engine are you using? The link above was the first of 80,000,000 results that came up in a Google search for hill clarke & co

14 N-m is really tight for an M5 fastener. The standard spec for a grade 8.8 is 7.0 N-m and even a grade 12.9 is only 11.7 N-m.

Use police line tape. It'll give the neighbors something to talk about.

Lots of good advice so far. One other thing to think about is what you're using for a drill. Not all cordless drills have the power to push a 1/2" drill bit through steel as slowly as the bit needs to turn. I grab my big Porter-Cable hammer drill (with the hammer feature turned off of course)...

If you've got the room, I like this idea. If you put the bay doors close to the house end you won't need much more concrete for the driveway than the current configuration calls for.

20' is way to tight. Even 30' might be an issue if you ever want to back a trailer or a tow truck up to the doors. Build it at 30'. You can always widen the driveway later but moving the building back after it's built will be problematic.

When I lived in upstate NY I used to put fuel stabilizer in the tractor, push mower, convertible, race car and motorcycles and pull the batteries out of anything that had them. I put fuel stabilizer in the two stroke mix for the weed whacker all the time so I didn't do anything to winterize...

My first thought was something Rat Fink related but I like the piston head sculpture idea.

I've 3D printed a bunch of electronics enclosures but I wouldn't do it for residential wiring only because of the UL listing requirement.

I haven't either. Designing and 3D printing one is on my to-do list.

Randy - I'm so glad that you had a chance to enjoy the fruits of your labors.

Really need to know what's going on above to determine if that's a problem or not. I'm not buying the "it's there to hold the box for the light switch" explanation since that box could easily have been attached to the stud the runs past the original panel and there's no need to shim out with a...

The only electric I've used that I like was a Foredom flexible shaft. The others have all felt bulky compaired to an air powered grinder.

Wow! That's a You **** if ever there was one! Nice find.

Machine tool pricing varies widly with region. Where I am that price is either a good deal or right on the money. In the northeast part of the US that might be a bit high.

A 'P's drill is 0.323"

To meet your stated criteria I'd use a #4 Drill point countersink in a drill press with the depth stop to start and counter sink the hole and then use a J drill (0.277")for the hole.