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I used the chat feature. The person gave me a refund while letting me keep the punches.

1. No, drains clog all the time. 2. No, there is usually a P trap installed that holds a column of water and blocks the air. 3. Sure, it is possible. 4. Only if the unit does not work and something got damaged.

It is operating as expected. You guessed right, the water is meant to be slung onto the condenser. Excess water will drip outside.

Multi speed is not variable speed. Which one is being quoted OP?

Man, I am feeling really slow. Isn't that a furnace behind the water heater? If it is, wouldn't that be the one you are replacing? That is what is confusing the hell out of me.

Seems awfully high, unless he is replacing a variable speed ECM motor or something. Most blowers are multi speed today. Typically you have one speed for heating and one for cooling. Back when I had a service van 8 years or so ago, I believe we charged like 500-600 for a standard blower motor...

I concur, pine trees ****.

What I mean is...you are taking the picture from the doorway. The new unit will sit behind the water heater? So will the water heater be moved toward the doorway?

I don't see the issue. Isn't the air handler going behind the water heater? Will it push the water heater closer to the door? And they do make PVC unions, or you could just cut it and install a coupling, neither of which is any problem at all. Edit: I just saw you were talking about the 2" or...

I show OOS for shipping. Bummer.

Leak checking should just be a hourly labor charge. I mean, if he finds the leak in 30 min, there is no way you should be charged 600 dollars. 129 dollars a pound, WOW.

Usually the equipment you are installing will give rated cfm levels at a certain static pressure. As someone previously pointed out with the straw analogy, you want to maintain pressure on the supply ductwork to have air evenly distributing to all registers. More static pressure on the duct...

Trane makes a great tool called a "ductalator". Google it. I think there may even be an app. You want a certain static pressure on the duct in order for all air to distribute properly.

I ask since I seem to remember one of those little pressure bottles for dusting your keyboard was actually a small can of 134a.

Dropping the temp of the whole house 10 degrees in that amount of time does not seem unreasonable. As someone stated, the unit should be designed to run 100% of the time to maintain 75 degrees inside when it is 95 outside. Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

Is it even necessary to recover 134a from a vehicle? Seems that it would be a moot point seeing as how much you would actually recover. Sent from my DROID X2 using Tapatalk 2

Being from the Chicago area, out of curiosity, what is the company that you chose and how much will it cost you?

Package states "Made in the USA with globally sourced components".

At Home Depot I picked up a tape measure set consisting of a 25' Fatmax and 16' Fatmax for 19.97. I saw this deal a couple weeks ago but just took advantage tonight. There were about 6 left at my store in Bloomingdale, Il.

How do you get the outdoor unit back on? Does it start back up on its own? Seeing as how the compressor AND fan stop, the contactor sure sounds like it is dropping out.