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Your friend must have more money than he knows what to do with. 3 system replacement because one was leaking? Wow.

When you increase the size of the drive pulley it will increase the speed. When you increase the size of the driven, it will slow it down.

As far as hooking up to your current system, just use the access ports on the condenser. Your gauges should have 1/4" standard connections. I would use the ball valve and put it on the end of the high side hose. After you hook the hoses up, bleed the "air" from the hoses (high and low)...

I might keep them for later use if I had the room. Selling used equipment seems like more work than I would want to deal with.

Just picked up my 5th one. Thanks. Showing $99 online.

I would start considering a leak as a possibility. Hook your new gauges up and see what your pressures are.

No air should be bypassing the coil. Hopefully your issues are solved.

Doubtful on the lime and calcium. It looks like you have a cased coil. There should be access doors on the front and possibly the back. If you have the room, I would try getting at the intake side of the coil by sliding those doors forward. There are usually two drains. One is the normal...

I don't really like the advice to change it every 5 years, seems wasteful. Anyway, the freezing is usually caused by one of two issues. 1. Airflow. The required amount of air is not moving over the evaporator (clogged filter, bad blower motor) 2. Refrigerant leak. Refrigerant should never leak...

How?

:headscrat Without it, the refrigerant will absorb more heat. This causes higher superheat. End result would be the compressor getting too hot because it is not being cooled by the vapor. It would be less likely to see liquid return to the compressor with an uninsulated line. Not more likely.

I was referring to the OPs original question.

Refrigerant lines are run through attics all the time. Usually when the furnace/air handler is located in the attic. As a seven says, just insulate properly.

Looks like it will work fine. Seems to match the specs on your old one.

So the buzzing is most likely the contactor in the unit. The contactor is told to pull in by the thermostat. You can not yank the disconnect out at the condenser and cycle the contactor. It is fed 24v from the thermostat./furnace. Check your voltage on the line and load side of the...

No difference. Your link is a third party seller selling them through the sears site. Looks like they are hoping some complete ***** buys them and pays 99 bux with 175 dollar shipping.

Same. Most hooks are free shipping as well from sears.

+1 to this. I just picked up 2. One had damage all over it. Had to waste 45 more minutes going back to the store because I didn't check before I left.

All links for reference only.

I usually pick up random hooks and what not for the gladiator wall panels/tracks if I have craftsman club/surprise points to spend and I don't want to buy a lot. I just saw I had $7 in surprise points tonight. I "bought" this.. http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00959104000P Shipped...