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No….not wild about the ‘man cave‘ handle either.

Well obviously something is amiss if it won’t dry.

I believe it’s an “X” style lift.

Kholer or American Standard….Delta

I’d screw the ceiling….just my opinion

32’x56’x13’+ here. I went with two 12’x8’ doors…LOVE the 12’ width AND love the 13’ 5” ceiling.

Our bath in the house is 5’x7’….35 sq ft. Shower, ‘potty’ and sink. It’s no where near 100’!! I have a SS sink in the shop…no toilet

I gave 60 amp in my shop…ya can only use one tool at a time! 100 amp is a train load

Terrible idea….buy the land

Wow….had NO idea of what you were asking.

Sounds to me as if you are reinventing the wheel….go rent the proper tool. A lot less screwing around

I painted mine years ago….it was all good.

llwillysfan on here has been giving great advise in the past. But I am of the belief that ‘high n dry’ is good. Another 8” row of block is some money well spent. As alway, just my opinion

I am real happy with my Liftmaster

I used paint from Ace Hardware for a color match

I did a pole barn foundation and conventional studs…2”x6”x12’, entirely covered with PSB, wrap and then metal

Preval worked beautifully for me when I was doing a ‘body off’ restomod on my ‘65 Impala. I needed matching paint just off the instrument panel. They matched it perfectly and sold me an aerosol can……lovely!

The Gilmore brass ones were good when they were made I. The USA…but they are not anymore

In my past life I have run a lot of conduit on roofs for A/C units….we never painted the conduit….it’s galvanized anyway

In April , at a local swap meet, I bought neon sign letters of a local dairy, luncheon, ice cream chain, so I’ve been constructing a frame and doing some reconditioning of the sign.