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Almost. Box plugs into 120VAC line and splits the power. Both the smart switch AND the contactor get plugged into the line voltage, but the 120VAC output of the smart switch controls the coil of the contactor (A1 & A2 in what I linked), allowing the contactor to supply power to the load. Done...

Weird. Well, post 13 shows a Sonoff smart switch controlling an external contactor. You could make that yourself with one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Baomain-Contactor-Universal-Circuit-Control/dp/B01EJ38RDA?tag=atomicindus08-20 and a box.

I've fried at least three of Leviton smart switches (currently down to 10 in use). They're less reliable for me than Sonoff (also fried 3 or 4, but have >30 in use right now). They pretty much all use the same componentry in the end. Of the Leviton, two stopped responding on the WiFi end. I...

The click when it starts and stops is the both the pressure switch AND the unloader (they're a combined part). The click when it stops should be followed by a hiss, as the unloader releases air trapped between the pump head and the tank inlet check valve. My guess is you have some moisture...

It depends on the depth (i.e. percentage) of thread engagement.

Yeah. That is a beauty. That era of military watches had class. I wonder if the hands and dial are full of radium... Ok, that context was lost on me, but if it is her, then unless there was some bad blood the owner was looking to erase, I agree. That being said, while I use my pneumatic...

Sorry, but no. With radiant heaters, there is little correlation between power usage and beam range. During the pandemic, I purchased five different 120V 1500W radiant heaters to use for family activities outdoors (I was able to easily reach my back yard with five separate circuits). With...

It sure is. You can see the machine at 4:52. Its an MS 3.5 laser welder. Look up Freeform Fabrication Dado laser welder. Pretty awesome technology using a microscope and mixing laser pulses for heat input (unlike an electric arc) with an inert gas (as needed), with the ability to add filler...

Wow, that was one real basket case to begin with. I'm with you, always erring on the side of conservation rather than restoration, but when all you have to work with is something abused beyond usability you have to weigh the historical value you would be destroying vs the value you are...

You don't need to experiment with line voltage. You're not electroboom. Just disconnect it, and out of the circuit use an ohm meter to measure resistance between the line side and ground. Any resistance lower than 48k ohms would trip a GFCI. I do agree that a GFCI would probably have tripped...